PlanetSKI Reports from Crans-Montana
17th December 2024
It is increasingly popular with British visitors with numbers up 25% since pre-Covid levels. So, what are the attractions of the Swiss resort and why is it becoming more popular? NEW
Some resorts are seeing a decreasing number of British visitors, but Crans-Montana is bucking the trend and seeing the opposite as it undergoes something of a transformation.
We have been hitting the ski area, trying our hand at ski touring, and looking at the upcoming Alpine Ski World Championships that the resort hopes will cement its position as a major Swiss resort for locals and international visitors.
Off the slopes we’ve been experiencing new restaurants, sampling old ones and immersing ourselves in this Swiss resort.
Oh, and we’ve been curling.
In short we have been doing a bit of everything, and in no particular order.
All in a 48-hour visit.
The ski area
The Crans-Montana lift system and ski area operation have just been taken over by the US ski resort operator, Vail Resorts.
We have already reported on it, as we ask what changes are afoot and where else in the Alps Vail Resort is looking to expand.
Crans-Montana sits on a south facing plateau high above the Rhone Valley.
This being early December not all is open, but there is more than enough, and I had a fabulous start to the season, as mentioned in my snow report last weekend.
The resort is placing much emphasis on ski touring, or ski rando.
It is the only large and mainstream resort that I know of that has dedicated piste maps, with trails across the whole ski area.
There are 16 designated ski touring routes for all levels with 84kms of marked and secure paths.
It is catering for a rapidly growing activity on snow.
The rental shops have plenty of gear and displayed in a prominent position rather than tucked away at the back of the shop.
“It is becoming increasingly popular as people want to get away from the crowds and get closer to nature,” said the specialist ski rando guide, Patrik Gervais.
“People do it to get fit, push themselves a bit and simply do something different in the mountains.”
Our group did a tour of 3.62kms with a vertical ascent of 574m and it took a shade over two and a half hours.
And our reward?
Lunch at La Cabane des Violettes:
A cheese fondue never tasted so good.
And just in case you are interested the traditional raclette is made form Gruyere and Vacherin cheeses, with a dash of cornflower to create thickness.
The trick is to rub garlic in the saucepan, add plenty of white wine and then simmer is slowly.
And don’t forget to keep stirring.
It is the perfect meal to follow a spot of ski touring.
At the other end of the skiing spectrum the 2027 Alpine Ski World Championships are coming to Crans-Montana with World Cup events in the run-up.
The CEO of the organising committee is none other than the legendary former Swiss alpine ski racer, Didier Defago.
He is a local boy and winner of the Hanhnenkamm and Lauberhorn Downhills + Olympic gold in Vancouver.
For me the ski area is somewhat under-rated and has far more than its image suggests.
There is good piste skiing but the surprise for me is the off piste with people currently hiking up to ski down.
And the resort is steeped in alpine history.
It held the first ever ski race in 1911 that was organised by the British ski pioneer, Arnold Lunn.
It is commemorated in town.
And other fabulous images of days gone by line a connecting town escalator in Montana.
In the 1980’s it had 78 hotels, now it has 34 as many have been converted into apartments.
But new ones are being built as interest grown in Crans-Montana.
Hotel L’Uciole is due to open in Montana in 2026.
The Villages of Crans & Montana
In town the latest restaurant to open is La Ferme Saint-Amour.
It is owned by 80-year-old Annie Famose who is something of a legend.
The French woman was a double Olympic medalist at the Grenoble Winter Olympics in 1968 and one of the founders of Avoriaz after she hung up her race big.
Oh, and she set up Ski Set too.
We were fortunate to be there for its opening night.
It is a far cry from more traditional offerings, such as the Mayen du Chemin des Lanternes.
It can be found hidden away in the trees on the Lantern path near to Crans and is well worth a visit.
Inside it was time for another fondue – a meat one this time.
Montana has a traditional alpine feel, all centred around the ice rink in the town.
There’s ice hockey and general skating.
It acts like a village green, giving the town a heart with locals congregating to exchange news and gossip at the end of the day.
There is also curling on offer, which is a fun way to spend an hour or so.
I haven’t been in Crans-Montana since 2018 and it has exceeded expectations, both on and off the slopes.
And one thing to finish on are the views across the Rhone Valley – some of the most spectacular in the Alps in my humble opinion.
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It’s worth a visit to Crans-Montana just for the view.
I will not be leaving it another six years before I return.
And hopefully I’ll stay more than 48-hours.
Cheers.
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