Innsbruck: City & Ski

10th December 2022 | James Cove, Innsbruck, Austria.

Last modified on December 16th, 2022

PlanetSKI has been on a pre-Xmas city and ski break to Innsbruck. Hitting the city then the slopes of Kuhtai, Stubai and Schlick 2000. We round up the visit with more information and fresh photos.

We started off our visit to the Tirol in the Otztal Valley -Soelden, Obergurgl and Hochgurgl.

PlanetSKI is back on snow

Soelden, Austria. Image © PlanetSKI

Now we have headed to Innsbruck, the self-proclaimed capital of the Alps, and some of its surrounding ski areas.

Day One: Kuhtai and Innsbruck

Now I should make an immediate declaration of interest.

I love Innsbruck.

In the season of 2018/19 I lived in the Tirolean city for 3-months.

In the building on the left, as you ask – 3rd floor at the back looking up at the mountains and the Nordkette ski area.

Innsbruck. Image © PlanetSKI

I find it hard, if not impossible, to be objective and independent about the place.

Along with Aosta in Italy it is quite simply one of my favourite cities in the Alps, and it just feels like my ski home.

Period.

And now I am back.

Innsbruck. Image © PlanetSKI

I am back after spending a few days in the Otztal Valley visiting Soelden, Obergurgl and Hochgurgl.

PlanetSKI is back on snow!

More on Innsbruck later, and the Xmas markets, but first my ski day in the nearby resort of Kuhtai.

It is a drive of about 40-minutes and was made even better by the snow dripping off trees on the way up on this visit.

Kuhtai. Image © PlanetSKI

The valley and its villages looked like a proper winter landscape.

Kuhtai. Image © PlanetSKI

There has been precious little early season snow, but things are now changing.

Kuhtai. Image © PlanetSKI

It is Austria’s highest ski resort at 2,017m above sea level.

It offers skiing alongside the neighbouring area of Hochoetz – 25 lifts and 88kms of slopes.

In Kuhtai 81% of slopes have snow cannons and 3kms of slopes are floodlit.

The lift system can transport 19,451 people per hour.

Kuhtai’s slopes sometimes remain open until early May.

However, today up on the slopes the inclement pre-season weather had returned.

Kuhtai. Image © PlanetSKI

See here for the blog on the first part of my trip to the Tirol, where conditions were a bit murky to start with in the Otztal Valley:

PlanetSKI is back on snow!

“Kuhtai is primarily a family friendly resort, and its great attraction is that it sits on two sides of the pass so there is skiing facing north and south, so you can chose your orientation,” said Elena Protopopow, from the Tirol tourist board, to me.

Elena Protopopow. Image © PlanetSKI

The conditions may have been less than 100% but no matter, as we just made the best of what was on offer.

Kuhtai. Image © PlanetSKI

I was simply happy to be back on snow and in my happy place.

I couldn’t keep the smile off my face.

Khutai. Image © PlanetSKI

Not least because I knew what the evening held in store.

A visit to the Christmas Markets of Innsbruck, a stroll around the city and perhaps a beer or two in my favourite watering holes.

Innsbruck. Image © PlanetSKI

There are 7 different Xmas markets in Innsbruck, including:

Old Town Christmas Market
Christmas Market Maria-Theresien Straße
The Family Christmas Market at Marktplatz
Panorama Christmas Market on Hungerburg

In 2019/20, before Covid-19 struck, 1.2 million people visited the Christmas markets in Innsbruck.

PlanetSKI has visited them before including the smaller ones, pretty much known to locals only:

PlanetSKI visits Xmas markets in Innsbruck

Xmas in the Tirol. Image © PlanetSKI

“The Christmas markets are a very important as people see the perfect mix of urban and alpine as well as getting in the mood for Christmas,” said Andreas Reiter, the marketing manager of Innsbruck tourism, to me as we toured the city.

“Many people come to Christmas markets and see what we offer both as a city and a ski destination and then they come back for more.”

Andreas Reiter. Image © PlanetSKI

It is worth taking a little tour of the side streets too.

Innsbruck. Image © PlanetSKI

There is more to Innsbruck at this time of year than just the Christmas markets.

Step forward the Hofgarten and its stunning Lumagica show.

Innsbruck. Image © PlanetSKI

You see a main attraction from all five continents all amidst the wintry natural backdrop of Innsbruck’s Imperial Gardens.

The itinerary through this light park includes Asia, Australia and the USA.

Visitors see a colourful interactive light productions of Siberian wolves, dolphins, cowboys and much more besides.

Innsbruck. Image © PlanetSKI

There’s the Statue of Liberty.

Innsbruck. Image © PlanetSKI

And more…

Innsbruck. Image © PlanetSKI

See here for full details of the attractions:

The skiing and the activities in Innsbruck are all available on a joint pass – City + Ski.

It offers access to 13 ski areas, 22 city offers and 3 swimming pools.

The ski bus and the Hop on-Hop off Bus Sightseer are included too.

Skiing, snowboarding, tobogganing, swimming, culture, sightseeing and city fun, all on one pass.

It covers four ski regions in the Stubai Valley – Schlick 2000, Serlesbahnen, Elferbahnen and the Stubai Glacier.

There’s:

Bergeralm in the Wipptal Valley,
Glungezer above Hall in Tirol,
Axamer Lizum,
Innsbruck Nordkettenbahnen,
Patscherkofel,
Kühtai and Hochoetz.

Eight of the ski regions also offer night skiing and night tobogganing.

The pass includes Innsbruck cultural highlights:

The Hofburg Imperial Palace,
Ambras Castle,
Bergisel ski jump,
The Swarovski Crystal Worlds
The Alpenzoo

The pass can be purchased for between two to 21 days depending on the length of your stay.

There are many discounts for senior citizens, children, young people and people with disabilities, making the pass affordable and particularly useful for families.

The pass is available at the ticket offices of the 13 participating cable cars (except the Innsbruck Nordkettenbahnen), at the Innsbruck Tourist Information and at participating partners.

Innsbruck Xmas Market. Image c/o PlanetSKI

And the next ski resort as we continue to test Innsbruck’s claim to be the ultimate city and ski destination is Stubai – one of 5 glaciers ski areas near Innsbruck.

It’s been open since late September and promises much.

Day Two: Innsbruck and Stubai

Stubai is the nearest glacier ski area to Innsbruck and an easy journey of 30-minutes or so on this City+Ski trip of mine.

There is a free ski bus from the city that gives access to the 110 kilometres of pistes on Austria’s largest glacier ski area.

Stubai, Tirol. Image © PlanetSKI

Leaving the city offered spectacular views of Innsbruck and the ski area of Nordkette that perches above it.

Innsbruck. Image © PlanetSKI

The road up to the Stubai glacier near Innsbruck was another winter wonderland scene, with snow dripping off the trees.

Stubai, Tirol. Image © PlanetSKI

It was similar to Kuhtai that I visited from Innsbruck earlier:

Innsbruck: A city made for skiing

Stubai is usually one of the first resorts to open and this season it fired up some lifts at the end of September with some excellent snow conditions.

We reported at the time on PlanetSKI:

More glacier areas open for skiing and snowboarding

However, a warm October and November has led to a less than spectacular autumn ski situation – until now.

There have been some decent falls over the past few weeks and cold temperatures.

On my visit I was one of about 5,000 people out on the slopes.

Stubai, Tirol. Image © PlanetSKI

Many people were out despite the limited visibility.

Stubai, Tirol. Image © PlanetSKI

The weather didn’t quite play ball with winds gusting up to 90 kms per hour at some points during the day.

No matter.

As well as experiencing skiing from the city of Innsbruck I was also testing out a few skis, courtesy of Intersport.

Stubai, Tirol. Image © PlanetSKI

Some readers will know that if you take out a top of the range package from Intersport you can change your skis as many times as you want.

Maybe you want to change as the snow conditions alter across you holiday.

Or maybe, like me, you want to test a few pairs with a view to trying before you buy.

The beauty of the Intersport shop at Stubai is that it’s at the top of the main lift right by the slopes.

The set up and lay out means you don’t even have to take your boots off.

Stubai, Tirol. Image © PlanetSKI

I first tried a pair of Volkl all mountain skis (they’re the ones leaning up with the snow on) and then opted for a pair of Stockli slalom skis.

After that it was some Volkl Race Tigers – a GS ski that pulls no punches and my favourite for the day.

Stubai, Tirol. Image © PlanetSKI

Earlier this season there was the Intersport Snow Day in Stubai, where over 4-days you can test skis and snowboards, plus all manner of gear.

There are also a series of events running alongside the testing including ski touring, snow shoeing and yoga on the slopes.

Autumn is an important time for Stubai and it sees as many visitors as in the middle of winter.

Showing me round the slopes of Stubai was the media manager of the resort, Michael Gstrein.

Michael Gstrein. Image © PlanetSKI

‘We have something for everyone in Stubai,” Michael said.

“We have nursery slopes that are ideal for families with covered magic carpets, plus children under 10-years old can ski for free with an adult and we have special children’s area in the main restaurant.

“There are many slopes for intermediates and then a snowpark that has a line for pro-riders.

“Some of the best free style athletes in the world come here to train.

“There is also plenty of challenging off piste when the conditions allow, and we recommend you take a guide as it is a glacier area.”

Of course no ski trip to Austria is complete without some apres.

People in every resort go at it with gusto.

Stubai, Tirol. Image © PlanetSKI

Here’s Stubai’s early season offering:

Now I had planned for Stubai to be the last resort on my City+Ski visit.

But I heard it was opening day at one of my favourite small resorts in the Tirol – the wonderfully-named, Schlick 2000.

It would be rude not to change plans and pay my respects.

Intersport Fact Box for winter 2022/23:

Intersport has over 700 ski hire shops across the alps, renting award-winning skis and snowboards.

Why rent in resort?

Because you can save money on the airline baggage fee, have less to carry to resort, have up-to-date equipment that’s serviced every rental by qualified professionals.

Swap and change your skis and equipment as conditions demand, and get your feet accurately measured with the Boot Doctor scanning machine – guaranteed comfy, new boots.

Average rental is €8 per day including skis, helmet, poles and boots.

Book via www.intersportrent.com

Day Three: Innsbruck and Schlick 2000

It was a busy car park for the Opening Day at Schlick 2000 with an expectant buzz as people put their boots on and pulled ski gear out of their cars.

The resort is just a 20-miute drive from the centre of Innsbruck, so many had turned out to make their first turns of the season.

Schlick 2000, Tirol. Image © PlanetSKI

Others tumbled out of the free buses from Innsbruck.

Schlick 2000, Tirol. Image © PlanetSKI

The Opening Day at any ski resort is always rather special as people are back on their skis and snowboards after a long time away, and many months of skiing lie ahead.

The views heading up were special as the cloud of the last few days had lifted.

Up on the slopes I was one of the many.

You have probably never heard of Schlick 2000, let alone skied there.

The statistics do not do the area of Schlick 2000 justice – 22kms of slopes and 19 runs.

What the stats don’t mention is the enormous variety of terrain and the fabulous atmosphere.

As the slopes are limited in size you don’t need to spend the time charging round the ski area, rather take it in a more relaxed way and just enjoy the moment.

Did I mention the views?

I only had a couple of hours but it was a fabulous couple of hours and there was time for the obligatory snow report for the PlanetSKI social media channels and our snow report page:

Schlick is the perfect resort for half a day’s skiing and then the other half can be spent in Innsbruck – shopping, sightseeing or just chilling out.

There is plenty to do in Innsbruck and the City+Ski pass allows you access to its attractions:

The Hofburg Imperial Palace,
Ambras Castle,
Bergisel ski jump,
The Swarovski Crystal Worlds
The Alpenzoo

And so my opening visit to the Tirol drew to an end.

Time prevented me from skiing in one of the other nearby resorts I usually visit, Axamer Lizum.

I saw it moments after my plane departed from Innsbruck.

It is the other side of Schlick 2000 and again only about 20-minutes from the Innsbruck city centre.

As the flight headed over the Austrian Alps, the views got better and better.

I vowed to return to Innsbruck again this season.

Unheralded, an idea popped into my head – come back and live in Innsbruck for a month or so this winter.

Now there’s a thought…

Earlier Articles from this trip to the Tirol:

And if you are tempted for a City + Ski trip Innsbruck Tourism has drawn up a suggested 5-day itinerary:

Day 1: Arrive fully relaxed amidst the wintry mountain scenery

Once you have arrived in Innsbruck – ideally stress-free, by train – and checked into your accommodation, you can head straight to the vibrant centre of Innsbruck’s old town.

There you can discover the picturesque historic buildings, all surrounded by magnificent mountain scenery.

After an obligatory selfie in front of the Golden Roof, go up to the City Tower for an initial overview of the capital of the Alps.

The Hop on-Hop off Bus Sightseer (included in the SKI plus CITY Pass) will then take you to the Bergisel ski jump.

The Bergisel SKY restaurant, located in the ski jump tower itself, offers spectacular views while you enjoy coffee and cake and, with a bit of luck, the chance to watch the ski jumpers practising.

Back in the city, a traditional local delicacy for dinner is a must, so we recommend one of the old-established inns.

And, because your first day is all about views and panoramas, head to one of Innsbruck’s rooftop bars for a nightcap.

Our tips: 360 Grad on top of the Rathausgalerien, aDLERS Bar on the roof of the eponymous hotel, or the 5th floor bar at the The PENZ Hotel.

Day 2: A gentle introduction to skiing fun

After a hearty breakfast, you are all set for a first day on the slopes.

The ski bus – included in the SKI plus CITY Pass – takes you from Innsbruck up to the Axamer Lizum ski area, some 19 km away, where 10 cable cars and lifts and around 40 kilometres of perfectly groomed slopes await you.

In keeping with the motto “après-ski, then ski”, let your body regenerate after skiing in the indoor pool in Axams, where the water is heated to 30°C, then return, thoroughly refreshed, to the city centre for dinner.

There is plenty for night owls to enjoy: plunge into the city’s nightlife, try your luck in the casino, or go to a special performance at the Tyrolean State Theatre – just as the mood takes you.

Day 3: All the way up to Kühtai, Austria’s highest ski resort

On the third day of your holiday in the Innsbruck region, skiing fun awaits you – snow guaranteed – at the Kühtai Ski Resort, located 2,020 metres above sea level.

There are slopes for all levels of skill: families love the wide slopes; freeskiers and snowboarders have a home base in the KPARK Kühtai with the FreeStyle-Area & SnowCross; while action is guaranteed at the KidsPark for children and fun park newcomers.

After a great day’s skiing in Kühtai, the free ski bus will take you back to Innsbruck for dinner.

And, because you should take a good walk after eating, go for an evening stroll in the centrally located Imperial Gardens, where a must-see awaits: the magical LUMAGICA Innsbruck Light Park.

The wintry natural backdrop of the gardens is the setting for a journey through all five continents provided by the colourful, interactive light shows.

Admission is included in the SKI plus CITY Pass.

Day 4: Give your legs a rest as you explore the Innsbruck region

The penultimate day of your holiday is a chance to explore the Innsbruck region – totally relaxed, free from skis or snowboard, because today is all about sports-free lifestyle activities.

The first item on the agenda proves that this does not mean spending the day down in the valley in Innsbruck: take the Nordkettenbahnen funicular and cable cars up to the Hafelekar, from where it’s a 15-minute walk to the highest point of the Nordkette range at 2,334m.

The summit affords a unique 360-degree view of the city and the mountains.

After the breathtaking experience of the “Top of Innsbruck”, complete with a cappuccino on the restaurant’s sun terrace at the top station, take the cable car back back down.

Get off in the immediate vicinity of your next destination: the Innsbruck Alpine Zoo, with the world’s largest collection of fauna from the Alpine region – 2,000 animals, representing 150 species.

After spending time among the ibex, elk and bears, in the afternoon the shuttle bus will take you to the world-famous, enchanting Swarovski Crystal Worlds.

A snow-covered green giant awaits you, a glittering waterfall gushing from his mouth, while his head contains underground Chambers of Wonder.

Before the shuttle bus takes you back to Innsbruck for a relaxing end to the day, don’t miss the wonderful gardens of the Swarovski Crystal Worlds with their contemporary art, ancient history and unique joys.

Nordkette, Innsbruck, Austria. Image c/o PlanetSKI.

Day 5: On your glacier, get set, go!

Day five of your holiday features skiing or snowboarding on the Stubai Glacier.

The free ski bus will take you up to the 110 kilometres of pistes on Austria’s largest glacier ski area.

Whether you are a beginner, an advanced or an expert skier, winter sports fans are all equally enthusiastic about the Stubai Glacier.

An absolute highlight for the super-fit is the 10-kilometre run from the Wildspitz mountain station at 3,210 metres down to the valley station at 1,750m..

Finally, for lunch on your last day, a typical Tyrolean speciality is a must – and the glacier ski area offers a variety of options.

Afterwards, use the afternoon to the full – whether on the slopes or lounging in a deckchair at the side of the piste.

After soaking up the last rays of the sun, take the shuttle bus back to Innsbruck, where you can relax as your holiday comes to an end, before starting on your journey home.