An Andorran Adventure: Part Two

25th March 2023 | Jane Peel, Grandvalira, Andorra

Last modified on March 28th, 2023

PlanetSKI’s Chief Reporter is plugging a big gap in her ski knowledge, she’s finally in Andorra. Part two of An Andorran Adventure.

In part one, I covered my initiation into the Grandvalira ski area as I was shown around by a British ski instructor:

An Andorran Adventure

In part two, I’m taking on the challenge of finding my way around it without someone to guide me.

And learning about the recent history of the ski area, which might explain why it’s not the easiest place to navigate.

Despite the big signs and arrows.

Signpost in Grandvalira, Andorra. Image © PlanetSKI

Signposts & piste map in Grandvalira, Andorra. Image © PlanetSKI

I’m heading over from Soldeu in the centre of the Grandvalira ski area to the resort of Pas de la Casa at its far south-eastern edge.

That bit proves to be relatively straightforward.

It’s a simple journey, first passing through the Grau Roig sector.

There are blue, red or black options to get to the base of Grau Roig.

Mirador black run, Grau Roig, Grandvalira, Andorra. Image © PlanetSKI

Then it’s up the Pic Blanc chairlift and you’re at the top of Pas de la Casa.

Simple.

Pas de la Casa, Grandvalira, Andorra. Image © PlanetSKI

Time to enjoy some excellent runs.

The darker the colour the emptier they are.

For some reason, few people make it on to the steep but not too tricky black FIS run.

Just a sole snowboarder and me (and another snowboarder doing the filming).

Even where all the runs converge at the bottom it’s wide open with plenty of room.

Pas de la Casa, Grandvalira, Andorra. Image © PlanetSKI

Heading back to Soldeu, it’s again straightforward to Grau Roig.

After that, it’s much more confusing – to me, in any case.

It’s easy to take the wrong route or end up on the wrong lift, and I do.

Eventually, I find my way back to base, but not after more going down, going up and going down again than I anticipated.

To find out why the 200km of lift-linked skiing in the Grandvalira ski area isn’t quite as joined up as it might be, I turn to a man who’s been here for 40 years.

Leeds-born Gordon Standeven came to Soldeu in 1983 to do a season as an instructor and now runs the English-speaking part of the ski school.

I suspect there are few people here who know more about the place than he does.

Getting the inside story from Gordon Standeven. Image © PlanetSKI

“Grandvalira is a umbrella company to make it appear like it’s one resort. In actual fact it’s not,” he tells me.

There are two separate lift companies. One is responsible for Grau Roig and Pas de la Casa, the other for Soldeu and El Tarter.

“They were arch rivals to one another but they managed to broker a deal to link together under the Grandvalira name. Before they were linked you couldn’t ski from one side to the other.”

I mutter that it’s not that easy now.

There have been all sorts of negotiations, disagreements, arbitrations between the two companies.

But the fact is, Gordon tells me, the lifts have sensors on them.

And the two companies split their income depending on how many people use their lifts.

Lift in Grandvalira, Andorra. Image © PlanetSKI

A cynic might suggest it’s in their interest to direct skiers and snowboarders around the slopes in a way that encourages them onto their lifts, even if it’s not the most direct route.

Neither I nor Gordon could possibly comment.

Whatever the reason, it would be good if Grandvalira were a little easier to navigate.

I didn’t mind too much. I saw it as another challenge, along with the variable spring conditions.

And my final challenge – in fact my final run – on this short trip to Andorra was to take on the slope that was used for the technical races at the Alpine World Cup finals that ended just before I arrived.

The bottom section was still closed to the public but they’d opened up the top section.

Steep, hard and icy at the top, it was definitely a quicker way down than taking the gondola.

THINGS YOU MAY NOT KNOW

Brothers, Paul and Peter Noyes-Thomas, who owned a tour company, were the first to send British guests to Soldeu in the 1970s. They had driven through it on the way to find new locations for holidays on the Costa Brava. At the time Soldeu was little more than a farming village with a couple of chairlifts. There is still farming taking place with animals housed in the town centre alongside tourists.

Andorra is not in the European Union though its currency is the Euro. Leave your data roaming on your mobile phone at your peril. However, there is extensive, fast WiFi throughout Grandvalira, including in lift stations and restaurants.

The official language of Andorra is Catalan.
There are 340 full-time ski instructors covering Soldeu, El Tarter and Canillo, 45 of them British who work exclusively with the UK market.
“The Shambles” are a singalong band made up of British ski instructors who have been in Soldeu for a couple of decades and who perform twice a week at Fat Albert’s bar in the town. In their own words, they perform “some songs you know, some songs you don’t know and a lot of songs you won’t recognise”. A recommended night out.

Grandvalira’s season continues until 16th April 2023 (weather permitting).

Jane travelled with Inghams to Andorra, staying in the Hotel Himalaia in Soldeu. Inghams offer 7 nights in the Himalaia from £825pp including flights and transfers (departing 26 March 2023).

www.inghams.co.uk