Summer in Les 2 Alps: A Sports-Lover’s Dream
25th August 2023 | Claire McAteer, Les2Alpes
Last modified on August 27th, 2023
There was mountain biking, hiking, running & even some summer skiing. As the official summer season closes this weekend PlanetSKI’s Claire McAteer looks back at her earlier visit. UPDATED
Until this year, I had never visited ski resorts in summer.
They’re for making turns in winter right?
Why else would you visit them without the white stuff?
But then I stopped off in Chamonix this summer on my way back to the UK from Italy and I was totally blown away.
You can read more about that here:
Next up for me was Les2Alpes.
I visited in June to coincide with the area’s epic mountain bike ride, Mountain of Hell.
Full disclosure, I did not enter the race and not just because I was four months pregnant at the time.
It’s a mountain bike event unlike no other…
What is Mountain of Hell?
It’s a legendary downhill mountain biking race where hundreds of experienced mountain bikers line up on the glacier at one of the world’s highest start lines (3,200m) and ride down a 2,300m pretty much vertical run.
This year’s race, which was the 23rd time it’s run, took place 23rd-25th June and unlike last year, there was a lot of snow.
Cue absolute carnage.
Skilled bikers were falling all over the place as they slid on the snow.
Watching from afar, it was like a skilled sniper was taking them out one by one.
It’s honestly worth going up just to watch – a real adrenaline rush for the humble bystander.
When there aren’t 700 bike riders on it, the glacier is usually used as a ski slope, which gives an indication about the steepness of the descent.
After the snowy terrain, there is rugged, rocky terrain, followed by single tracks.
A friend taking part described it as the ride of their life.
The average biker takes an hour to an hour and half.
The winner did it in just 23 minutes and reached speeds of over 100kph.
Insane.
And the winner…
That was Enduro rider Kilian Bron and you can watch the highlights of his monster ride here:
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Mountain of Hell is for everybody
There was an e-bike race following the main race and a kids’ race, which of course doesn’t run anywhere near the snow slopes but is challenging enough.
Watching the youngsters, I only hoped my future child would be just as brave and up for adventure.
And I’ve been inspired myself to get my mountain bike experience up.
I think the full race is probably a bit too extreme for me, but I certainly got the buzz to try some more daring trails.
You can book lessons which includes a lift pass and all the biking kit you’ll need at local mountain bike school, Gravity Bike.
What else is there to do in Les 2 Alps in summer?
After watching the start of the race, I headed up the glacier and enjoyed a surprisingly satisfying morning of summer skiing.
Being pregnant, I took it pretty cautiously and stuck close with my wonderful guide Philippe from ESF.
I wasn’t too bothered that it was only blue slopes open.
They were stunning and I actually couldn’t believe how good the snow was.
Sadly the snow deteriorated as summer got into full swing, but it was great when I was there in June.
The slopes weren’t busy, the queues were only about 10-20 people deep on the glacier though busier at the main lift in town.
A ski pass is slightly cheaper in summer 1 day is €45 and a 6-day pass is €250.50.
So if you’re looking to improve your skiing or to take children to learn, it really is a great time to go.
I also loved learning that skiing in summer actually helps prolong the glacier as the skiers help to compact the snow.
Hiking with a twist
A real highlight of the trip for me was a day walking in Les Ecrins National Park with a hiking guide and foraging expert Fabrice.
We hiked for about six hours and tried all sorts of plants with various delicious tastes and surprising flavours along the way.
And we of course feasted our eyes on incredible views – mountains, waterfalls, beautiful greenery, a rare bird of prey and even marmots.
I’ve never seen one in all the years I’ve skied, so I was thrilled.
The walk hit its pinnacle at Refuge de la Lavey a delight in itself.
Run by Camille and Ludmilla, along with their six month old baby, they only get supplies once a month delivered by helicopter due to their remote.
But they still managed to make us the most delicious galettes with plenty of fresh vegetables.
The homemade kombucha was divine.
More thrill-seeking
If you like adventure, you can go paragliding and white water rafting in the area too, but I stuck closer to ground and enjoyed some of the best hikes and runs I’ve done in my life.
One of them, I headed on a route out of the town following signs for ‘La Croix des Perrons’.
The views were out of this world and the endorphins were high.
Finishing my run off with a dip at the pool back at my hotel, I couldn’t feel healthier or happier.
It’s the perfect solo alternative to mountain biking if you have a partner who prefers to hit the trails too.
Can I still book to go this summer?
Yes, with 32 hotels, 66 restaurants and 93 shops at Les Deux Alpes currently open, and over 40 activities available, there’s still time to book an unforgettable trip this summer.
Their summer season runs officially from 17 June to 27 August, though of course that doesn’t mean you won’t still be able to enjoy a trip outside of those dates too.
The mountains don’t shut up shop after all.
Towards the start of the season it’s mainly a very sporty clientele but by the end of summer it’s lots more families and children.
The only thing you can’t do now is skiing.
The glacier opened for skiing on 2nd May and, this year stayed open until mid-July.
For the foodie lovers there’s lots of good options.
Lunch in the garden by the pool at the five star Chalet Mounier is exquisite and you even get to use the pool for the day if you eat there.
For a few drinks in a lively bar, try Chez Nous 2, if only to meet the two wonderful sisters who run it.
You’ll be well looked after that’s for sure.
Where is a good option to stay?
For somewhere to rest your head, I can highly recommend Hotel Cote Brune.
It was recently made 4-star, but it’s still reasonably priced and a hearty breakfast is included in the rate, which always makes it a winner.
The best bit is definitely the outdoor pool though.
Grab a sun lounger and drink in the beautiful views – as well as a cocktail or too – or in my case, an iced tea.
There’s no feeling like it.
And it feels even better if you’ve done a morning of skiing, hiking or biking too.
Your adventure awaits
I always thought ski resorts were only to be visited in winter, but I’ve had my mind totally changed.
There’s something so striking about the greenery contrasted with the blue skies and the white mountain tops that you don’t see in a winter season.
A lot of the people I chatted to were skiers in winter and bikers in summer and I’m seeing more the draw of both.
It’s a great way to stay in shape and there’s still a buzz of adventure about the resorts, which is addictive.
I look forward to exploring more of them next summer…
Need to know
The nearest airport is Lyon Saint Exupéry.
There are transfers from the airport to Grenoble, then from Grenoble to Les 2 Alpes.
Grenoble is the closest train station