PlanetSKI Is In The Pyrenees
13th September 2023 | James Cove, Ax-les-Thermes, the French Pyrenees.
Last modified on September 20th, 2023
We’re back in our natural habitat – the mountains. We are in France for 4-weeks (hopefully longer) for the Rugby World Cup. Be rude not to spend the downtime between matches in the Pyrenees & the Alps. UPDATED
We were in Bordeaux in South West France for the opening matches last weekend, and then after headed into the Pyrenees.
See here for our earlier rolling blog:
We’ve been in the spa town of Ax-Les-Thermes in the Ariege region of the Pyrenees in France.
Read on to see what Autumn is like in the mountains…
Day Three: E-mounting biking
We picked up our e-bikes from an Intersport shop in the centre of town.
E-biking in the Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
It’s €70 for a full-day and €45 for a half day.
While we’re talking of money one of these e-bikes costs €2,750 to buy, so it seemed pretty good value.
You can get an even better deal as Intersport is offering PlanetSKI readers a discount: Hiring an e-bike with Intersport.
I mentioned earlier that the ski resort of Ax-3-Domaines is one of my favourites in the Pyrenees, and thought it would be fun to see it outside of the ski season.
It is 680 vertical metres above town.
A ride on a normal bike would take several hours of toil.
E-biking in the Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
It was a gentle 1-hour on an e-bike with time to admire the views.
E-biking in the Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
E-biking in the Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
Though it should be said that you still have to peddle, so effort is required – it’s just a whole load easier on an e-bike.
E-biking in the Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
E-biking in the Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
Ski resorts out of season are strange places with no-one around.
They feel abandoned and all that was missing was tumble-weed blowing through town to a spaghetti western sound track.
E-biking in the Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
E-biking in the Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
E-biking in the Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
E-biking in the Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
While cycling up I recalled there was a long gentle green down to the resort, that would be ideal for going up on an e-bike.
My memory served me correctly and we headed for the Jasses run.
E-biking in the Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
The pistes have turned into pastures.
E-biking in the Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
E-biking in the Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
With lifts idle.
E-biking in the Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
The Jasses is a gentle green, ideal for uphill e-biking.
E-biking in the Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
E-biking in the Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
Signs of winter activity abound and it brought back fond memories of the skiing here.
E-biking in the Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
E-biking in the Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
So, what about the skiing in Ax-3-Domaines?
I first visited in 2016 on a road trip round a few resorts in the French Pyrenees:
Ax-3-Domaines, Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
The skiing starts at 1,400m and goes up to 2,400m altitude.
As the name implies there are three areas – Bonascre, Saquet and Campels.
There are 80km of slopes with extensive off piste opportunities.
The longest run is 11kms and there is night skiing on offer too.
The area has 127 snow cannons.
Ax-3-Domaines, Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
Ax-3-Domaines, Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
We last went e-biking earlier in the summer in the Tirol where we detail some the technical stuff about the bikes – how they operate and what the techniques are.
See here for that information:
Today it’s all about the riding and the views:
E-biking in the Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
E-biking in the Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
E-biking in the Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
E-biking in the Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
The main gondola lift from Ax-les-Thermes to Ax-3-Domaines is closed so there was barely a soul around.
E-biking in the Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
Make that no-one around.
E-biking in the Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
We’re now heading out of the Pyrenees and driving across to Nice, with a stop-over in the medieval city of Carcassonne, before heading into the Alps.
We’re in Nice for Wales v Portugal, and England v Japan.
Our trip to Ax-les-Thermes has been a wonderful way to spend the downtime between the matches of the Rugby World Cup.
To see what the mountains have to offer in the autumn.
E-biking is right up there.
E-biking in the Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
E-biking in the Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
Day Two: A Spot of Hiking
We decided to drive out of the town of Ax-les-Thermes and head to the Orlu National Park.
It covers 4248 hectares of high mountain from 930 to 2765 m above sea level.
It is a protected area classified as a ‘national hunting and wildlife reserve’, with mountain biodiversity and wildlife.
We’re in the Alps next week for some high-altitude hiking so we decided to keep low, and follow the path of the river Orgiex.
First though it was a quick visit to the Rocher de la Vierge, that towers over Ax-les-Thermes.
It was a steepish 15- minute hike from the start of the main lift station.
Hiking in the French Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
Hiking in the French Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
Hiking in the French Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
The monument is a tower including an oratory and overlooked by a Virgin of Rome.
It was sculpted by Mathurin Moreau and includes a base with the attributes of the four evangelists.
At each corner of the tower there is an angel.
The virgin is 3,580m high and 0.8m wide.
The structure weighs 1.8 tonnes
Hiking in the French Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
The views back down to Ax-les-Thermes:
Ax-les-Thermes, French Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
We took a different route back for a spot of variety, and the pre-hike took us 55-minutes with 3.49 kms completed.
Next it was the proper hike of the day – in the Orlu National Park from the village of Orgiex where the river Oriege runs thorough.
It was picture-postcard pretty.
Hiking in the French Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
Hiking in the French Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
Our hike began by following the river, then we branched into farmland, with spectacular views of the National Park.
Hiking in the French Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
Hiking in the French Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
Soon enough we were into the woods.
Hiking in the French Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
Hiking in the French Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
I’m please to say the sign posting was excellent.
Hiking in the French Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
In the dense woods there were glimpses of the rocks either side of the path.
Hiking in the French Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
Hiking in the French Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
I’m liking hiking in the mountains more and more.
Maybe it is something to do with getting older, maybe it’s because you see more going at a slow pace.
At this precise moment it is a good antedote to the stress of the Wales game against Fiji last weekend.
As a supporter of Wales I think I aged a decade in that last 10-minutes.
If the result had gone against us… stress levels would be off the scale.
Then there is the small matter of Portugal, Australia and Georgia to come.
Little can beat listening to a mountain stream making its way gently downhill.
Except perhaps having a simple lunch beside it.
Hiking in the French Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
Hiking in the French Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
Soon it was time to turn back.
We re-traced out steps back to the village of Orgiex looking at the same scenery, but from a different angle .
Hiking in the French Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
Hiking in the French Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
The walk took 2 hours & 41 minutes and with 11.12 kms under the belt.
14.61kms was the day’s total.
Once back in Ax-les-Thermes there was only one thing to do.
A cold beer in hand and feet in a natural thermal bath is a pretty good way to end a day hiking.
Hiking in the French Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
There is more information about the thermal spring in the area lower down this blog, so do scroll down for further information.
Lets just say the locals have been dipping their feet in its waters and exchanging village gossip each evening for centuries.
The tradition continues.
Hiking in the French Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
Tomorrow we are renting some e-bikes from Intersport and heading up to the ski resort of Ax-3-Domaines, that is a vertical ascent of 640m from Ax-les-Thermes.
Do check back if you want to see what a ski resort is like in the autumn.
And why we have fallen in love with e-biking in the mountains.
Quite simply it’s none of the pain, with all of the gain.
Day One: Arriving in the French Pyrenees
The Pyrenees are perhaps one of the most overlooked major mountain ranges in Europe.
Make that THE most overlooked major mountain range in Europe.
There is fabulous skiing in France, Andorra and Spain yet most people head to the Alps (more about the skiing later).
I’ve been here in winter many times, and in the summer almost as often.
As I drove into the foothills of the Pyrenees past the city of Foix, clouds covered the distant peaks.
Ax-les-Thermes, French Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
We are spending a few days in a treat of a mountain town/village: Ax-les-Thermes.
Ax-les-Thermes, French Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
Ax-les-Thermes, French Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
Ax-les-Thermes, French Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
It is the real deal – an authentic mountain town.
It is centered around a traditional French village square.
Ax-les-Thermes, French Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
Ax-les-Thermes, French Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
There are no fancy hotels here – the highest category is 3*, with plenty of 1* and 2*.
Ax-les-Thermes, French Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
And if you like your French shutters and architecture (I do) then this is the place to come.
Ax-les-Thermes, French Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
Ax-les-Thermes, French Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
Ax-les-Thermes, French Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
It is a base ski village like no other.
There is a gondola lift in town that in the winter whisks people up to the ski areas of Ax-3-Domaines.
Ax-les-Thermes, French Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
I have skied here several times over the years and love the area.
PlanetSKI has gone by train too:
Ax-les-Thermes, Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
Ax-les-Thermes, French Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
Ax-les-Thermes, French Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
Back in town in summer the village is a labyrinth of cobbled pedestrian streets – hard to believe it is a mountain town.
Ax-les-Thermes, French Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
Ax-les-Thermes, French Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
Some areas have perhaps seen better days, with hotels and buildings boarded up with some sinking into decay.
Ax-les-Thermes, French Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
Ax-les-Thermes, French Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
For me though that all makes the place more authentic and real.
It is a genuine mountain town – warts and all.
As far away from the ‘disney-land’ ski towns as you could possibly get.
There is no petrol station, but I counted four boulangeries, plus numerous fromage & charcuterie delicatessens.
This is proper France.
As the name suggests Ax-les-Thermes is a thermal spot.
There are 60 in the surrounding area.
Ax-les-Thermes, French Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
It has the hottest of all the thermal springs in the Pyrenees at 77C.
The public pools are a more manageable 33-38C.
The water coming up fell 8,000 years ago.
It permeates down to 4,000m and the heat from the inner earth then sends it (slowly) back to the surface.
Here is the original spring in town and locals still come down in the evening to chat, smoke and look at their phones.
I suspect they have no idea that the water wetting their tootsies fell as rain 8,000 years ago.
Ax-les-Thermes, French Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
But that pales into insignificance as one considers the Pyrenees were formed 40 million years ago as the tectonic plates did their stuff.
There is another more modern place to wet one’s tootsies in town.
Ax-les-Thermes, French Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
It is the perfect way to end a day’s skiing as we can testify from past winter experience.
Ax-les-Thermes, French Pyrenees. Image © PlanetSKI
Tomorrow were heading into the hills for hiking.
Then we’re getting on some e-mountain bikes to get even higher.
Perhaps e-biking round the ski slopes of Ax-3-Domaine.
We shall see…
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