PlanetSKI Hits the Pyrenees
7th January 2024
Last modified on January 20th, 2024
We’re in Europe’s other main mountain range for most of January – skiing the French Pyrenees, Andorra and then the Spanish Pyrenees. First stop was Ax-3-Domaines in France, now we’re in Andorra. UPDATE
Saturday 20th January
FWT in Baqueira Beret in Spanish Pyrenees Cancelled
“The FWT is disappointed to announce that the first event of the season – the Baqueira Beret Pro – has been canceled due to snow conditions,” said the organisers in a statement.
“Despite recent snowfalls and good conditions on-piste, there is insufficient snowpack off-piste to safely conduct a freeride competition.
“Conditions in the backcountry will likely deteriorate further, given the warm weather forecast in the coming week, with no precipitation expected.”
It was due to take place next weekend.
“Well, that’s a shame but these things happen,” said PlanetSKI editor, James Cove, who was planning to be in the resort for the event.
Maybe James will head to the resort anyway as the pistes are all open.
“Even with the recent snowfall, there are currently inadequate conditions to run a premier freeride competition,” said the Commercial Manager at Baqueira Beret, Xavi Ubeira.
“All lifts at the resort are in operation, opening up more than 120 km of slopes.
“Therefore, there is still high-quality skiing on offer but, unfortunately, not enough for a FWT Pro event”.
“We are sad to have to cancel the FWT Baqueira Beret Pro, especially as events here over the last two years have delivered such great starts to the FWT season,” said the FWT founder, Nicolas Hale-Woods.
“As always, weather and snow conditions dictate our decisions, which is a part of the outdoor sports world. Although this is disappointing, we can’t wait to return here next year in January.”
Wednesday 17th January
Andorra Travel Service Takes On & Beats the Big Boys
The small independent company started operating in Andorra in 2005.
Almost 20-years on it is still independent, but has grown somewhat.
It is the leading independent operator for the UK, Irish and international market in terms of size and expertise and second only to TUI overall as an operator in the UK and Irish market.
It brings around 10,000 per year to Andorra mainly for 7- night durations, and with stays of 4, 5 and 6 days growing yearly.
It is owned by husband and wife team of Iain and Gemma Archer.
“We have a team of 7 staff, all are Andorra full residents thus creating an expert call centre, sales team, service centre and admin function for our flexible holiday model,” said Iain.
“When people call, email, chat, or what app, they come through to our Soldeu office and are serviced by a us here on the ground in Andorra.”
The main operators (some no longer here) Crystal, Neilson, Inghams, Topflight, and previously Panorama, First Choice, Airtours had dominated the country with the charter flight model.
As the low-cost model grew and the traffic to Barcelona expanded Iain and Gemma saw that it was possible to get skiers and snowboarders to Andorra without the main operators.
It began matching hotels, the airport shuttle timetable and packaging with lift passes, ski hire and lessons.
At that point there were 3 services per day from Barcelona and 2 services per day from Toulouse.
The accessibility was the key to be able to grow and attract a new market and educate an existing market.
With its partners Andbus, it now has a program that runs from Barcelona to Andorra 8 times per day, every 2 hours between 9am and 11pm
From Toulouse it is 4 times per day, every 4 hours from 10am to 10pm.
These services run between the airport and the resort itself with either door to door or nearest bus stop drops.
It runs every day of the year , except 25th December and 1st January.
“We have helped to develop and shape the independent market for Andorra and over all it now rivals and potentially exceeds the charter market,” said Iain.
“Our brand identity is aligned with our transport partners Andbus which gives customer the sense of reassurance that although an independent traveller, they are being taken care of by us each step of the way.”
See here for full details of Andorra Travel Service.
Monday 15th January
We have just posted out first main article on Andorra.
It covers the skiing in the main Grandvalira area, and much else besides.
- Where to Stay in Andorra
- Holidays in Andorra
- Eating & Drinking
- Snowsports Events
Those that have skied recently in Andorra will know what it offers.
Those that haven’t may have a slightly wrong view of the ski area high up in the Pyrenees, sandwiched between France and Spain.
Do check out our full report:
Sunday 14th January
For many people no visit to Andorra is compete without a sport of shopping in the capital, Andorra La Vella.
With its tax-free status some prices are considerably cheaper.
We picked up the latest i-phone 15 Pro for £300 less than we would have paid at an Apple store in London.
We were not the only ones out for a Sunday bargain.
Its centre is one huge duty-free shopping area selling the usual perfumes, electrical goods, watches, clothes and alcohol.
This being Andorra there are many other products from saucepans to motorcycle crash helmets.
And if you fancy a gun or a samurai sword then you only need to look.
And when all the shopping gets too much, as it will, then don’t forget to head to the deserted and pretty old-town.
Saturday 13th January
We know that Andorra hosts a couple of Word Cup skiing events organised by FIS.
- Speed Skiing
- Alpine Skiing
Plus the Freeride World Tour in Arcalis that is also now under the FIS umbrella.
But today we discovered another World Cup event that takes place in Arinsal.
Next weekend there is a World Cup Ski Mountaineering event.
Ski Mo is set to feature in the Winter Olympics for the first time in 2026 and interest in the sport is rising rapidly.
Today Spanish athletes were competing ahead of next weekend.
Oh, and at the other end of the scale we also witnessed a bit of chairlift carnage in Arinsal.
And enjoyed some spectacular views from Arinsal and neighbouring Pal.
Friday 12th January
Friday was a fabulous blue sky day in Andorra as we have reported in our main snow report:
Time for a spot on lunch on the outdoor terrace of one of our favourite restaurants, Pessons in the Grau Roig sector.
We could have started with three oysters and a glass of champagne for €23.
Or taken the plunge and gone for 12 oyster and a bottle of bubbly – €120.
It will come as no surprise to anyone that knows PlanetSKI’s, James Cove, what he opted for.
A slightly cheaper bowl of pasta – Tagliatelli with home-made pesto sauce at €17.
And the long suffering Mrs Kisia Cove was ordered a bowl of Catalan meat broth – €15.
“My pasta was worth every cent too, and I bet it was tastier than any oyster,” said James.
“Plus it set me up for a great afternoon’s skiing in a way that a few oysters certainly would not have.”
“And of course it helped me spot the odd bit of remaining powder to the side of the piste.”
View this post on Instagram
Thursday 11th January
See here for our latest video snow report that was posted on Thursday 11th January:
We’ve discovered another good reason to come skiing in Andorra – it is unaffected by post-brexit European border rules.
It is possible to ski for as long as you want per season in Andorra.
All the other ski nations in Europe are in EU or Schengen so Brits can only spend 90 days out of 180 within their borders as free-movement has gone with our departure from the EU.
See here for our full article that explains the details, and is posted elsewhere on PlanetSKI:
Tuesday 9th January
We have made our first turns in Andorra.
It’s so, so good to be back.
View this post on Instagram
On Monday we skied Pas de la Casa and Grau Roig, and on Tuesday the whole of the Grandvalira ski area.
We’re staying just above Soldeu in the Grandvalira sector with Pierre et Vacances.
The company is known for its apartments and self-catering accommodation, but it does have hotels.
One is Hotel Austria and we’ll be posting a review of the hotel and the access it gives to the Grandvalira ski area so do check back for that.
Here’s our latest snow snow report on conditions in Andorra from Tuesday:
And more images of the cannons at work.
More to follow, including details of a British success story in Andorra – the company Andorra Travel Service that was set up by a good friend of PlanetSKI, Iain Archer.
The independent company brings 10,000 skiers and snowboarders to Andorra each winter and is now second only to Crystal Ski in the UK market.
It is a story of a good idea, fabulous product and hard work.
All aimed at the independent skier who wants to build their own holiday to suit their own needs.
And did we mention that a pint here in Andorra is €4.25 (£3.66).
And that Andorra is outside of the EU and Schengen, so you don’t have to count the number of days you are here.
Brexit rules mean UK residents can only spend 90 days out of 180 in all the other ski nations of Europe – not in Andorra.
Stay as long as you want.
Full details to follow.
Sunday 7th January
Well, that was an interesting car journey up to Andorra.
As we set off from Ax-Les-Thermes, France (720m) heading to Andorra (2,140m) the omens did not look so good – heavy snow, temperatures of -9c + strong winds.
Normally the journey should take about an hour or so.
Snow chains would undoubtedly be required.
Many people are daunted by putting chains on their car and driving with them, but it really is quite simple.
The first thing is to practise at least once before you get to the mountains (this will save you much time and you learn/remind yourself in favourable weather conditions).
Then put them on before you need to, as when you need to it will be snowing and cold by the side of the road.
A waterproof covering over your gloves is also a good idea to prevent your hands getting wet and cold.
Plus use the floor mats from your car to kneel on.
Under 10-minutes later we were set to go.
Don’t forget to tighten them up a few hundred yards after you set off too.
It was a long and slow journey up the mountain, but so be it.
Note the coaches in the distance as the road snaked up the hill.
Heavy snow on the roads meant snow on the pistes and we were in no hurry as we had left Ax-Les-Thermes in plenty of time.
Others (without chains) would need more time for their journey.
Sometimes the visibility was good.
Other times less so.
The 1-hour journey ended up taking 3 and a half hours.
The beer in the Hotel Austria on arrival tasted even sweeter.
Tomorrow should be quite a day – as long as some of the snow that came down on the roads has fallen on the pistes.
Do check back…
And do take a read of this article we have just posted, as our memory was triggered of an earlier experience we had with chains this winter in Austria:
French Pyrenees
The ski area of Ax-3-Domaines lies at 1,400m and goes up to 2,400m, and sits above the spa town of Ax-Les-Thermes at 720m.
It hasn’t been a great winter for snow so far in the Pyrenees in general, but we’re delighted to say that changed as we arrived.
Once again it seems we in the right place at the right time, with fresh snow dripping off the trees.
The resort is a strange mix – ideal for beginners and yet also excellent for freeriders.
As its name suggests there are three different areas:
- Plateau de Bonascre
- Domaine du Saquet
- Domaine des Campels
Off the marked runs there is some excellent terrain, when conditions allow.
And though it may be snowing now, there has not been enough to exploit its off-piste potential on this visit.
If you need a Vail, a Verbier or a Val d’Isere to enjoy your skiing then look elsewhere.
The highest ranked hotel is 3*, but the town oozes genuine mountain charm.
Ax-Les Thermes is the real deal in my book– a genuine mountain town without the frills and fuss.
Where else can you pop into the local market on the way to skiing and rub shoulders with the locals?
Or queue up with locals to buy a pain chocolate to eat on the lift up.
Architecturally the ski resort of Ax-3-Domaines is in marked contrast to the town of Ax-les-Thermes.
The area is on the main road up to Andorra and I often stay for a day or two on the way up.
I also come here in the summer.
Last September I was in France for the Rugby World Cup and popped up for a few days in between games.
And it is always good seeing ski resorts in the summer and then the winter:
Then there are the natural thermal baths dotted around town – ideal after hiking or skiing.
Prices are a fraction of what they are in Klosters, Kitzbuehel or Courchevel.
€6 for a 25cl carafe of wine, €6 for a large beer, €9 for a lunch time croque monsieur and €12 for a caesar salad.
Lift passes are €229 for 6 days or €45 for a day.
All too soon it was time to hit the road to Andorra.
There was only one problem – it was absolutely chucking it down with snow, the temperature was -8c and there were warnings of high winds.
Chains were going to be essential and I predicted the journey time of 1 hour to Andorra would be rather more than that.
It turned out to be 3 and a half hours with snowdrifts, traffic jams and zero visibility to contend with.
It seems PlanetSKI’s Pyrenees adventures are just beginning.
Do check back…