PlanetSKI is Skiing & Sightseeing in Turkey

29th January 2024 | James Cove, Turkey.

Last modified on February 8th, 2024

We’re on a City & Ski break to Turkey. We’ve hit the slopes of Kartalkaya, now we’re in Istanbul. UPDATED

Regular readers will know PlanetSKI is a huge fan of City + Ski breaks:

Innsbruck in Austria, Aosta in Italy and Grenoble in France are preferred alpine destinations with the wonderful collection of resorts around each city.

Lets not forget Oslo and San Francisco either.

So, when the opportunity arose to go to Asia it was, as they say, ‘a no-brainer’.

And here I am in Turkey.

Skiing in Turkey. Image © PlanetSKI

DAY FOUR & FIVE

The ‘Ski’ part of our visit to Turkey is over.

Now it’s the ‘City’ part – Istanbul here we come.

I’m usually slightly sad leaving a ski resort, but most definitely not in this case.

City & Ski, Turkey. Image © PlanetSKI

I am on my way to the ‘City’ part of this trip – Istanbul, one of the most fascinating cities in the world, where East meets West.

It is divided by the Bosporous with 65% of its 24m population living on the European side on the west, and 35% in Asia on the east.

We’re staying in the centre of the European side by the Galata Kulesi (tower).

Istanbul, Turkey.

The journey back down the mountain from the ski resort of Kartalkaya was truly spectacular as I contemplated what lay ahead.

City & Ski, Turkey. Image © PlanetSKI

It’s a 4-hour drive from Kartalkaya to Istanbul, so a lunch-stop was perhaps required.

Make that definitely, as this is Turkey after all, and the food is rather good.

We stopped in the lakeside resort of Golevi, about and hour and a half from Istanbul.

City & Ski, Turkey. Image © PlanetSKI

The garden and views were spectacular.

A long, long way from the ski experience and all the better for it.

I felt like I was travelling and exploring new countries, rather than just going skiing.

City & Ski, Turkey. Image © PlanetSKI

Another simply glorious Turkish meal was presented.

City & Ski, Turkey. Image © PlanetSKI

Istanbul was at its heaving best as we arrived.

City & Ski, Turkey. Image © PlanetSKI

Initially it was a bit of a culture shock after the openness and beauty of the mountains to be in a city simply teaming with life.

The sights and sounds were light years away from the mountains.

City & Ski, Turkey. Image © PlanetSKI

And what’s this?

City & Ski, Turkey. Image © PlanetSKI

An outlet for the Swiss supermarket giant MIGROS that has just put the UK ski operator Inghams up for sale:

Inghams is up for sale

Yesterday I got up early (08.00) to catch the first lifts in Kartalkaya, as reported lower down this rolling article.

Skiing in Turkey. Image © PlanetSKI

In Istanbul I was out earlier (07.30) to savour the city waking up and springing into life.

When in a city I often go for a wander around before breakfast – it is, quite simply, the best time of day.

City & Ski, Turkey. Image © PlanetSKI

In Istanbul I was up with the fishermen.

City & Ski, Turkey. Image © PlanetSKI

The mosques looked spectacular on my sunrise wander.

City & Ski, Turkey. Image © PlanetSKI

No Istanbul visit is complete without seeing one of the many markets and bazaars.

This morning I chose The Spice Market – building was started in 1597 upon the instruction of Safiye Sultan, the wife of Mural III, and it was finished in 1667.

City & Ski, Turkey. Image © PlanetSKI

It is impossible to convey in words the aroma inside, as the herbs, spices, food, joined in a cacophony of different scents.

I can recall it as I write these words several hours later.

I was staying in the Galat area and as I strolled back across bridge for breakfast, the Galata Tower dominated the skyline of the district.

City & Ski, Turkey. Image © PlanetSKI

It is the main visitor attraction in the area.

City & Ski, Turkey. Image © PlanetSKI

Construction started in 1453 and was overseen by the Ottoman Sultan ‘Suleiman the Magnificent’, though I suspect that was a self-styled title.

It was used a lookout station for approaching vessels on the Bosporous.

As other towers were built elsewhere to spot invading armies in advance it was used as a fire lookout station as blazes broke out in the city.

Much is closed for restoration work so it is not possible to climb the 146 steps to the top for some of the best views of the city.

City & Ski, Turkey. Image © PlanetSKI

So, I did what most Turks do many times a day – I had a coffee.

City & Ski, Turkey. Image © PlanetSKI

Turkish coffee is a unique affair.

City & Ski, Turkey. Image © PlanetSKI

In fact it was Suleiman the Magnificent’s wife, Hurrem, who championed its cultivation.

As Suleiman conquered Arabia, coffee seeds were brought back and they were planted.

Most now grow in south-west Turkey.

So, what makes Turkish coffee distinct?

One part of cold water is mixed with the coffee and sugar, then placed in hot sand brazier.

It springs to life as the heat does its work.

City & Ski, Turkey. Image © PlanetSKI

Suddenly the silence was broken by the wail of sirens as the call to prayer was announced.

Another thing Turks do many times a day.

There are five prayer times with the first at sunrise and the last at sunset.

95% of the population are Muslims with 69% claiming to prey each day.

Prayers are either conducted in mosques, or people do their thing on their own prayer mats from wherever they are.

They do need to know the direction of Mecca – it is 29° eastward, from south, in Istanbul.

In Turkey the majority of the population are Sunni Muslims who believe in democracy and are secular.

They do not so much worship Allah in their prayers, but rather remind themselves of their status as human beings, and the need to follow the teachings of the Koran throughout daily life.

In the ski resort of Kartalkaya there were no mosques, but each hotel has a prayer room.

I saw people heading there several times a day in my hotel, the Dorukkaya.

The prayer room is on the first floor.

Skiing in Turkey. Image © PlanetSKI

Now I know we are PlanetSKI, not PlanetISTANBUL or indeed PlanetFOOD, but it is impossible not to wax lyrical about Turkish cuisine on this City & Ski trip – it was fabulous at both locations.

One of the best places for street food in Istanbul is undoubtedly Mumhone Street.

The locals all call it ‘Street Food Road’ and frequent it in their droves.

City & Ski, Turkey. Image © PlanetSKI

My final dinner in Turkey was in the Karakof restaurant with views overlooking the city and the Bosporous.

City & Ski, Turkey. Image © PlanetSKI

The next morning it was departure time and the journey back to the mountains of Europe.

My ‘Istanbul experience’ was not quite done though.

As my taxi to the airport headed down a one-way street a van approached coming in the wrong direction.

City & Ski, Turkey. Image © PlanetSKI

A ‘Turkish standoff’ developed with much honking of horns and waving of arms.

People in the vehicles backing up behind us joined in the fun with horns blaring and eventually Turkish white van man realised he was going nowhere and reversed into a tight entrance to let us all through.

City & Ski, Turkey. Image © PlanetSKI

I assume that once we had passed he continued down the street in the wrong direction on his personal shortcut.

If you have ever thought of doing a City + Ski trip then my advice is waste no further time.

Perhaps start in Innsbruck in Austria, Aosta in Italy, Lausanne in Switzerland or Grenoble in France.

Oslo in Norway is a good one too

As the late, great ski film-maker Warren Miller said “If you don’ do it now you’ll be one year older when you do”.

Then get yourself to Turkey.

I hope the past few days of my posting on PlanetSKI may have inspired you.

The trip has certainly inspired me.

I’m keen to visit a few more remote and interesting places to make a few turns on snow as an excuse for a wider travelling experience.

I am just putting the finishing touches to a February visit to Kazakhstan next week.

Watch this space folks…

DAY THREE

It started off looking rather promising as dawn broke.

Definitely a day for a quick breakfast, early lifts and on the slopes pronto.

First tracks awaited.

Skiing in Turkey. Image © PlanetSKI

The view across the Turkish mountains in Asia were quite simply stunning.

What I didn’t know on those first runs was that today was about to be one of my best days of the season so far.

I was heading to the neighbouring Kartel area where a separate €30 daily lift pass is required – more on my view of that later

I had heard it was well worth a visit from a friend who has skied here a few years back, so I decided to get the pass and investigate.

Never have I been given such a nugget of advice that brought such fabulous rewards.

The main area of Kartel is a fairly straight forward affair.

Skiing in Turkey. Image © PlanetSKI

It has:

1 green
7 blues
6 reds
7 blacks

In truth though the reds are blues and the blacks are reds, by alpine standards.

Skiing in Turkey. Image © PlanetSKI

There are some decent views too of the surrounding Koroglu mountains.

But take a look at the piste map and notice the single t-bar (top left) with a few runs off it.

Skiing in Turkey. Image © PlanetSKI

I headed straight there.

I thought that I’d give it a go and there might be a bit of off piste to play in.

A bit of off piste to play in?

I beg your pardon.

Skiing in Turkey. Image © PlanetSKI

We spent the whole afternoon in the area, just lapping the same T-bar lift over and over again – never taking the same line twice.

Some of my friends I was with like to ski the powder in the traditional way:

Others take a somewhat different approach:

The pistes were utter perfection with wide slopes, plenty of rollers and barely a soul around.

It also happened to be a bluebird day.

I filed the daily snow report, complete with ‘PlanetSKI Observations’ on the need to purchase another lift pass:

Then I met my new best Turkish friend, Xecmi Kepgetutan.

Skiing in Turkey. Image © PlanetSKI

He is a veteran ski instructor here and a three-time winner of the Turkey National Ski Championships – he won his last title in 1987 in Ezzerum.

I was with Turkish ski royalty.

“This is one of the favourite areas for the locals in-the-know and it is called Yilmaz Demir.”

Skiing in Turkey. Image © PlanetSKI

“It was named after one of my best friends who died in a car crash – we skied together, raced against each other and partied together.

“We named this area so the memory of Yilmaz would live on.”

Xecmi also told me about skiing in Turkey.

“Around 500,000 Turks ski out of a population of over 84m, but it is growing.

“30 years ago it was only for the very-rich, but now it is opening up. Of course you still need plenty of money, but it is not as elitist as it used to be.

“The British used to come here before Covid and I taught many, but they don’t seem to come so much anymore.

“When they do ski here most are surprised about how good it is.”

I could only agree.

I was having one of my best day’s of the season so far thanks to this man.

Skiing in Turkey. Image © PlanetSKI

And here is Yours Truly in the Turkish powder:

Kartalkaya. Image c/o Michal Gurgul / @outdoormagazyn

Skiing in Turkey. Image © PlanetSKI

Now it should be said that we have been lucky with the snow conditions.

It is often cold with plenty of snow in this part of the world, but not always.

“We get get conditions like this about a dozen times a winter, so you are are fortunate my friend,” said a local I chatted to on the chairlift.

“I would grade the current conditions 8 out of 10 – not the best we have, but up there.”

I came across nothing but friendship and kindness from all the Turks I met.

Their hospitality reminded me of being in Austria.

They were delighted to see a British person had made the effort to come and that he was enjoying their culture, traditions and hospitality as well as their skiing.

Most spoke a smattering of English and to a person they seemed to love practicing the language with a native English-speaker.

Every ski area has a few down sides and Kartalkaya is no exception – here are some ‘PlanetSKI Observations’.

In my opinion there are a couple of slight drawbacks about the skiing in Kartalkaya as seen through the eyes of a skier from Western Europe who more used to the Alps and the Pyrenees.

Firstly the rentals are perfectly good for beginners and low intermediates, but poor if you want a decent piste ski or something for the powder with a bit of width underfoot.

Skiing in Turkey. Image © PlanetSKI

I would recommend bringing you own.

They also don’t come cheap at around €50 per day just for skis and €100 per day to be kitted out for full, including clothes.

There is a 15% discount per day if you order for longer.

It should be pointed out that there are some good shops for accessories – gloves, goggles and clothing.

Skiing in Turkey. Image © PlanetSKI

The second drawback is the ski area is divided into two and they are not on the same lift pass as I found out today.

It is quite possible to buy a separate lift pass, but it is just an irritation when you already have one for the part of the resort you are staying in.

I am staying in the Kaya area, but I can only ski in neighbouring Kartel by buying a day’s lift pass at €30.

If you want to come from Kartel to Kaya the day pass is €20.

A large sign on the slopes where the two areas join up tells its own story as there are no ski tracks betwwee.

Effectively you ski in one are or the other.

Skiing in Turkey. Image © PlanetSKI

So, what about the food here in Turkey?

In my humble opinion it is many levels above the standard meat and cheese you get in many parts of the Alps, and above all it is different.

Like the whole of the skiing experience in Turkey.

Here is the spread at dinner at my hotel, the Dorukkaya:

Skiing in Turkey. Image © PlanetSKI

The hotel has 730 beds so there are plenty of hungry mouths to feed.

For me one of the many treats about skiing in Turkey is undoubtedly the food.

But my main culinary experience is to come in Istanbul where I’m heading to shortly.

There will be a full update from one of the best restaurants in the city, Mukellef Karakoy, with rooftop views from the European side of the city.

So, as I leave the Ski Part of this trip and head to the City Part in Instanbul, what are my final thoughts?

Do check back…

DAY TWO

Today was my first time skiing in Turkey, though I did pass through Istanbul on the way to Sochi in Russia ahead of the 2014 Winter Olympics.

I heard about the ski areas and vowed to come back.

It has taken me a decade to put that right.

As is the norm for me I had done absolutely no research, as I prefer to arrive in new resorts with as few perceptions and preconceived views as possible.

This was midnight in Kartalkaya from my hotel window as I arrived after a 4-hour transfer from Istanbul airport.

So, not much given away about what the resort might be like.

And here it was the next morning.

That’s better.

The piste map didn’t look terribly promising.

But once again looks can be deceptive.

We skied straight to the main, and only, chairlift lift that goes to the top of the resort at around 2,300m.

Not a bad place to be on a Monday morning.

The resort itself is made up of a handful of large hotels.

We hit the powder and the pistes.

Then the first ever PlanetSKI snow report from Turkey was duly filed.

Now if you are wondering why I’m excited about the blue sky coming it’s because there wasn’t great visibility across the day with cloud and mist coming in at a moment’s notice.

It happens on a regular basis and the resort even has ‘piste lights’ so people can see where they are going as the visibility disappears.

Apart from my surprise at the quality of the snow, its depth and the terrain; the people and facilities were also not perhaps what I expected.

This slopeside bar/restaurant would not look out of place in St Moritz or Courchevel.

Perhaps that’s why their distance away is indicated.

Inside it is what I call ‘up-market’.

And outside people were there to see and be seen – like in the aforementioned up-market alpine resorts.

But what struck me most of all was number of people in the resort.

I had expected a few hardly souls, not full on mass ski tourism.

The main slopes were pretty deserted but around the beginner lifts, the slopes at the base of the resort and inside the hotel it was packed with thousands of Turks enjoying sliding around on the snow and being in the mountains.

Inside my hotel they were queuing up to register.

Who are they?
Where are they from?
When did skiing start in Turkey for the masses?
How is Turkey developing its ski industry?
Is it growing or shrinking?

I made a note to learn more about the development of skiing in Turkey and will be updating on that subject later.

In the meantime there was some Turkish food to be enjoyed at the hotel buffet.

And this pudding, with tea, is now a personal favourite:

It’s called Kaymakli Ekmek Kackiyiti.

Essentially, bread in a sugary juice with a buttery cream affair.

I’ll be updating on the Turkish food, and wine as this blog rolls on.

Do check back…

DAY ONE

I arrived just before mid-night (local time) on Monday.

It’s a 4-hour flight from London to Istanbul, but with plenty of room and a map to look at to prove I was heading for adventures I was a happy bunny.

Anticipation is part of the experience.

It was chucking it down with rain on arrival at Istanbul airport.

Perhaps a sign of snow in the resort of Kartalkaya Yolu that is a 4-hour drive to the east of the city?

Skiing was first on the agenda, with a couple of days in Istanbul later in the week.

Kartalkaya lies in the Koroglu mountains in the northern Black Sea region of Bolu province.

It is 163 miles from Istanbul & 115 miles for the capital, Ankara, and describes itself as ‘one of Turkey’s most popular ski tourism centres in the northwestern region’.

It claims 70kms of slopes and 25 runs, with 2,000 beds.

The omens looked good as we stopped to refuel an hour or so from the resort with heavy snow on the ground.

And once we had pulled off the motorway to head up the mountain road it looked even better.

The 45km road connecting Kartalkaya with the main town of Boya down in the valley was built in 1978 and was the catalyst for the growth of the ski resort.

We were in a 20-seater coach and I wondered how we would make it up the hill as the road became snowier and snowier.

And narrower and narrower.