PlanetSKI’s Innsbruck Stay Goes Up a Gear

13th March 2024 | James Cove, Innsbruck, The Tirol.

Last modified on March 18th, 2024

We’re here in Innsbruck in the Tirol for a month or so – the ultimate Ski + City location in the Alps. 13 ski areas around the city with 23 attractions off the slopes – all on one pass. Bring it on… UPDATED

There’s the high-altitude glacier resort of Stubai, the ever-popular resort of Kuhtai + the hidden gems of Axamer Lizum and Schlick 2000.

Then some little-known ones off the beaten track:

Patscherkofel
Glungezer
Bergeralm
Muttereralm
Hochetz
Oberperfuss
Serles
Elfer
Nordkette

13 ski areas with 296 kms of slopes, 50km of ski routes and all served by 111 lifts.

They are all within an hour of the city, some are under half an hour away and one, Nordkette, has its base lift station in the centre of Innsbruck itself.

It’s a 5-minute walk from the front door of the apartment PlanetSKI has rented.

Nordkette is situated at an altitude of 2,000m with some gentle beginner slopes and a super steep descent on the ‘Karinne’ – it’s a 70% gradient and for experts only.

You wouldn’t want to be in some of the resorts for a week-long holiday, but you don’t have to be on the Innsbruck City and Ski Pass – just a day will do, thank you very much.

Then there’s the 23 attractions on the Pass including the Bergisel ski jump, The Imperial Palace, Ambras Castle, the Golden Roof museum, the Alpenzoo, the Swarovski Crystal World in Watten, the Hofkirche and many, many more.

Last weekend we were hitting some of the smaller resorts around Innsbruck in order to avoid the weekend crowds – we were first in a couple that most British skiers have never heard of: Oberperfuss and Muttereralm (see below).

On Sunday it was time for a favourite.

Schlick 2000

We’re continuing our visits to the smaller and less-well known ski resorts rounds Innsbruck that are on the Ski+City Pass.

Partly to avoid the weekend crowds, but also because we love what they offer – simple, no-frills skiing that is full of character and alpine authenticity.

None more so than Schlick 2000 that sits at the entrance to the Stubai Valley.

It seems we weren’t the only ones with the idea.

Innsbruck Ski + City, Schlick 2000. Image © PlanetSKI

The public bus, also on the Ski+City pass, was busy delivering the inhabitants of Innsbruck for their Sunday snow fix.

Innsbruck Ski + City, Schlick 2000. © PlanetSKI

Fortunately there is plenty of skiing here for a full day here, and a decent amount of terrain:

Innsbruck Ski + City, Schlick 2000. Image © PlanetSKI

There are 7 blues, 7 reds and 3 blacks – giving 22kms of slopes.

The skiing starts at 1,000m and goes up to 2,240m.

At 2,055m it looks pretty good.

The resort also has a new lift since the last time I was here a couple of years ago, the Galtbergbahn.

Innsbruck Ski + City, Schlick 2000. Image © PlanetSKI

It opens up new terrain with blue, red and black slopes from its top on the front side of the mountain.

Innsbruck Ski + City, Schlick 2000. Image © PlanetSKI

There is significant lift investment taking place in the resorts around Innsbruck with new lifts also at Azamer Lizum and Glungezer.

Innsbruck Ski + City, Schlick 2000. © PlanetSKI

Time for the PlanetSKI snow report:

As well as being a magnet for weekend skiers from the surrounding area, Schlick 2000 also attracts para-ponters from far and wide due to its high altitude take off spot and excellent thermals.

We saw them as we headed up in the gondola.

Innsbruck Ski + City, Schlick 2000. Image © PlanetSKI

And then at the top.

Though not all had immediate success.

The area also has a few fabulous mountain restaurants.

Innsbruck Ski + City, Schlick 2000. Image © PlanetSKI

In the Sennjoch Hutte the specknoodle suppe and cheesecake can’t be recommended highly enough.

Innsbruck Ski + City, Schlick 2000. Image © PlanetSKI

And all for under £8.

Innsbruck Ski + City, Schlick 2000. Image © PlanetSKI

Now that the weekend is over we have a dilemma here at PlanetSKI.

Do we stick with small resorts like Patscherkofel, Bergeralm, Serles and Elfer, or head to the larger and well-known ones of Stubai and Kuhtai?

Watch this space…

Oberperfuss

It is a 15-minute drive from Innsbruck on the way towards Azamer Lizum which was the first resort we skied on this stay as it’s a bit of a PlanetsKI favourite (see below).

Oberperfuss is an altogether individual ski area.

It is modest in size with just three main lifts – a gondola with mid-station that goes to 1,650m and then a drag lift to the top at 2,00om.

It has a magic carpet and a beginners lift.

It offers night skiing on Tuesdays and Friday and has a 10km toboggan run.

With 17kms of slopes it is most definitely not the place for a week-long ski holiday, but absolutely the place for a gentle day, or just a morning/afternoon on the slopes.

Innsbruck Ski + City, Oberperfus. Image © PlanetSKI

Innsbruck Ski + City, Oberperfuss. Image © PlanetSKI

For me it summed up what the Innsbruck Ski + City pass offers – a different mountain experience.

On the gondola heading to the top I counted 12 skiers walking uphill and 3 coming down.

Innsbruck Ski + City, Oberperfuss. Image © PlanetSKI

Nothing to do with lift system, as the the gondola is fast and modern.

But Oberperfuss is a magnet for ski tourers.

Innsbruck Ski + City, Oberperfuss. Image © PlanetSKI

I have never been in a ski resort where there are more people walking up on skis than coming down on them.

A first!

And after all that effort a reward is needed.

It is to be found in plentiful supply in Rosskogelhutte that has been serving people for over 100 years.

Innsbruck Ski + City, Oberperfuss. Image © PlanetSKI

It uses only locally grown produce.

Innsbruck Ski + City, Oberperfuss. Image © PlanetSKI

And the views down the Inn Valley towards Innsbuck, with its airport in the mid-distance, are quite special.

Innsbruck Ski + City, Oberperfuss. Image © PlanetSKI

There is not enough skiing for a full day going down hill, but the slopes are deserted so lapping the lift is a bit of a treat and you can just open up without fear of other skiers on the slopes.

The tourers going up hill always keep to the side and you can see them in front of you anyway as you speed down the slopes.

Oberperfuss felt like my own private ski area.

Innsbruck Ski + City, Oberperfuss. Image © PlanetSKI

At mid-day we headed to Muttereralp that is a short drive away.

Muttereralm

It is slightly larger than Oberperfuss with four main lifts.

Time for the PlanetSKI snow report:

You can buy a lift ticket by the hour – €32 (£27) for 2-hours, or €37 (£31) for 3-hours.

A day ticket is €49 (£41).

I had no need to buy a ticket as it is on the Ski+City pass.

Again there was barely a soul around.

Innsbruck Ski + City, Muttereralm. Image © PlanetSKI

Just a kids club doing gates.

Innsbruck Ski + City, Muttereralm. Image © PlanetSKI

It specialises as a family resort with gentle skiing at the top, but there are decent long runs down to Mutters and Gotzens when snow conditions allow.

Innsbruck Ski + City, Muttereralm. Image © PlanetSKI

The run down to Gotzens on the right of the piste map is 4,200m long with a 900m vertical descent and is a fabulous run through the forest.

Time just slipped away as we roared round the deserted slopes.

Now, don’t get me wrong I live for the large ski areas with extensive terrain, steep slopes and a wide variety of terrain.

But on the other side of the coin are ski areas like Muttereralm and Oberperfuss that are to be treasured for the simplicity and authentic alpine atmosphere they offer – proper ‘old school’:

Innsbruck Ski + City, Oberperfuss. Image © PlanetSKI

From Muttereralm we could see yet another resort just across the valley – Patscherkofel.

Innsbruck Ski + City, Patscherkopfel. Image © PlanetSKI

The scene of that 1976 Olympic run from perhaps the greatest downhill skier of all time – Franz Klammer.

We plan to be in Patscherkofel later in the week and will undoubtedly be skiing the Olympic Downhill run.

So, where did PlanetSKI head to first as we arrived in Innsbruck earlier in the week?

One of my all-time favourite small resorts in this part of the Tirol or anywhere else in the Alps for that matter – Azamer Lizum.

It is a 20-minute drive from the centre of Innsbruck and the approach road itself is stunning.

More like the Canadian Rockies than the Austrian Alps.

Innsbruck Ski + City, Axamer Lizum. Image © PlanetSKI

A new lift has been installed since my last visit a couple of years ago.

Innsbruck Ski + City, Axamer Lizum. Image © PlanetSKI

The new 10-person gondola Hoadl I + II takes just 6 minutes from the car park to the panorama restaurant Hoadl-Haus at 2,340m.

Innsbruck Ski + City, Axamer Lizum. Image © PlanetSKI

At the top, 2,343m, the views are as breathtaking as ever.

The high alpine location ensures snow from the end of November to mid-April.

OK, so what about the slopes at Axamer Lizum?

It is the largest ski area near Innsbruck with over 40kms of pistes and 9 lifts.

Axamer Lizum piste map

It was pretty much deserted on our mid-week visit.

Innsbruck Ski + City, Axamer Lizum. Image © PlanetSKI

For me, Axamer Lizum is an absolute gem.

Time for a quick video for the updated PlanetSKI snow report:

And then admiring more of the views in this utterly fabulous ski area:

Lunch was at my favourite place:

There has been a bit of reaction from PlanetSKI readers over on the PlanetKI Facebook page since we first posted this report:

Alex Wrigglesworth – Great little ski resort!

Adrian Barratt – We’re heading there tomorrow or Saturday, had a brilliant day in Hochoetz today and superb conditions in Fulpmes Schlick 2000 yesterday. Just don’t tell everyone.

Julie Harrison – I learnt to ski there in the 80s

John Rapley – It would help if they built a link from Schlick 2000 – as the crow flies its no distance but to get there is a real pain in the neck on buses…they have been talking about it for many years – I guess its local opposition or local wildlife groups worried it may disrupt the lesser spotted alpine bat population.

Now, this is a Ski + City break experience so where better to start the site-seeing after a day on the slopes of Axamer Lizum than the Bergisel Stadium and Ski Jump in Innsbruck itself.

Innsbruck Ski + City, Bergisel Ski Jump. Image © PlanetSKI

There was only one problem – the furnicular lift on the left was undergoing repairs and was out of action.

The only way up was the steps on the right.

It was worth it (almost) for the views, as I paused for breath half way up.

The first ski jumping competitions were held on the site in 1927.

And while we are on the subject of history in 1809 the site also saw several ‘Battles of Bergisel’.

Andreas Hoffer won the third battle and defeated the Bavarian and Saxon soldiers under the command of the French.

It is all depicted in a neighbouring museum that is well worth a visit.

The site was the Olympic ski jump for the 1964 and 1976 Winter Games, and in 2012 the Bergisel hosted ski jumping for the Youth Winter Olympics.

The venue area has also seen performances from The Cure, Placido Domingo and in 1988 The Pope celebrated mass here.

459 steps later, and slightly out of breath after a full day’s skiing in Axamer Lizum, we were at the base of the tower.

The tower was designed by the Iraqi architect Zaha Hadid.

It is 50m tall and stands at an altitude of 791m.

It is possible to visit the top of the jump to see where the ski jumpers launch themselves.

Well, could you?

Then some fabulous view of my home for the next 4-weeks:

And as we walked back down the 459 steps a rainbow appeared – perhaps an omen of the month ahead.

It always slightly surprises me why more people don’t combine a ski trip with other activities, such as a city break.

And why people don’t take a bit of time to explore the country they are skiing in.

Time is obviously a pressure and ski turns are addictive, but there is so much else to do and see in the mountains than just ski.

As well as the sites already listed we’re looking forward to a walking tour of the city, a 3-hour bike trip and a visit to some swimming pools and wellness centres.

All on the Ski + City card.