Week Two in Innsbruck Continues for PlanetSKI

20th March 2024 | James Cove, Innsbruck, The Tirol.

Last modified on March 24th, 2024

Since arriving a week or so ago we’ve skied Axamer Lizum, Muttereralm, Oberperfuss, and Schlick 2000.

Read all about it in the Week One blog: PlanetSKI is in Innsbruck for an Extended Stay.

It details all that is on offer in the Ski+ City Pass and we also have extra information at the end of this article.

Update:

A Ski + City day

Against the plan it turned out to be a Ski+City day.

We had intended it to be a simple ski day, but the weather had other intentions.

After the recent sun of Stubai (see below), it was the gloom of  Glungezer.

Glungezer, Innsbruck. Image © PlanetSKI

The resort is one of the handful of small resorts under a half-hour drive from Innsbruck.

We have skied here a few times before and it is a cracking ski area.

The basic facts of 2 blue runs, 7 reds and 1 black, spred over 23kms of slopes, conceal what it offers.

Innsbruck Ski + City, Glungezer. Image © PlanetSKI

There is much more to Glungezer than meets the eye.

There is a state-of-the art gondola from the village of Fulpes at 922m that takes six and a half minutes to reach the Halsmater area at 1,560m.

Then a brand new lift, the Tulfein Express, that has replaced an old, long and tiring t-bar that takes you to 2,055m.

Glungezer, Innsbruck. Image © PlanetSKI

It is a so-called, chondola – a combination of chairs and gondolos.

Innsbruck Ski + City, Glungezer. Image © PlanetSKI

Once again, we noted of the serious investment going into the lift systems in the resorts around Innsbruck – Axamer Lizum & Schlick 2000 have also had modern and fast lifts installed in recent years.

However, no amount of investment can change the weather.

On ou recent day in resort thick cloud rolled with a mix of rain and snow, as we headed up the hill to the top of the resort at 2,304m.

Glungezer, Innsbruck. Image © PlanetSKI

There were a few other hardy souls about, but not many.

Innsbruck Ski + City, Glungezer. Image © PlanetSKI

An early lunch seemed the best option and there is no better mountain restaurant in the area than Tulfeinalm.

Innsbruck Ski + City, Glungezer. Image © PlanetSKI

There was plenty of room inside and we took our time over the fabulous home-made soup.

Innsbruck Ski + City, Glungezer. Image © PlanetSKI

Innsbruck Ski + City, Glungezer. Image © PlanetSKI

And dried out by the roaring fire.

Innsbruck Ski + City, Glungezer. Image © PlanetSKI

After lunch there was a slight improvement in the weather.

Innsbruck Ski + City, Glungezer. Image © PlanetSKI

But we soon retreated back inside to enjoy a hot chocolate at another mountain restaurant, the Alpengasthof Halsmater.

Innsbruck Ski + City, Glungezer. Image © PlanetSKI

Then we remembered passing Schloss Ambros on the drive here from Innsbruck and looked to see if it was on the Ski+City pass as one of the 23 non-skiing attractions on offer.

Under half an hour later we strolled into its grounds.

Innsbruck Ski + City, Schloss Ambras. Image © PlanetSKI

It is one of the top tourist destinations of the Tirol and in high season sees hundreds of visitors per day.

Like the ski slopes of Glungezer it was deserted, and we had the place to ourselves.

Innsbruck Ski + City, Schloss Ambras. Image © PlanetSKI

The castle was first mentioned in the 11^th century and became part of the House of Habsburg in 1363.

Archduke Ferdinand II (1529-95) had it completely renovated and was his gift of love to Philippene Welser.

However, she was the daughter of an Augsberg merchant not fitting the son of a Habsburg emperor – their marriage and their children had to be kept secret.

Ferdinand II was an avid collector of paintings, armour, artefacts and precious items and this is recognised as one of the first museums in the world as he brought them all under one roof in Schloss Ambras.

Innsbruck Ski + City, Schloss Ambras. Image © PlanetSKI

Innsbruck Ski + City, Schloss Ambras. Image © PlanetSKI

Innsbruck Ski + City, Schloss Ambras. Image © PlanetSKI

Its most famous room is XXXXXX – the Spanish room.

Innsbruck Ski + City, Schloss Ambras. Image © PlanetSKI

Innsbruck Ski + City, Schloss Ambras. Image © PlanetSKI

Innsbruck Ski + City, Schloss Ambras. Image © PlanetSKI

Innsbruck Ski + City, Schloss Ambras. Image © PlanetSKI

The Chamber of Art and Wonders contains many of its museum pieces.

Innsbruck Ski + City, Schloss Ambras. Image © PlanetSKI

One of its most famous pieces is ‘Small Death’ carved out of a single piece of wood, likely by one of the leading wood carver in Lower Bavaria at the time, Hans Leinberger.

Innsbruck Ski + City, Schloss Ambras. Image © PlanetSKI

To me it looked like Hans may have predicted the coming of Keith Richards – or perhaps the Rolling Stones’s legendary  guitarist modelled his look on Hans’s creation.

The Schloss is famous for its peacocks.

I am not going to stretch the Rolling Stones metaphor too far but they certainly strut around with more than a touch of Mick Jagger, and like to display their wares.

Innsbruck Ski + City, Schloss Ambras. Image © PlanetSKI

The Schloss must have been a marvel in its day.

Innsbruck Ski + City, Schloss Ambras. Image © PlanetSKI

And it still is today.

Innsbruck Ski + City, Schloss Ambras. Image © PlanetSKI

Innsbruck Ski + City, Schloss Ambras. Image © PlanetSKI

Especially when the weather conspires against skiing.

And one thing is for certain on our month-long stay in Innsbruck – we’ll be back in Glungezer when the sun comes out.

Glacier skiing

James Cove in Stubai, The Tirol. Image © PlanetSKI

Week Two

As our second full week in Innsbruck gets underway and the temperatures rise we’re heading high, to one of the biggest resorts on the Innsbruck Ski+City Pass.

Step forward the Stubai Glacier:

Innsbruck Ski + City, Stubai. Image © PlanetSKI

Innsbruck Ski + City, Stubai. Image © PlanetSKI

It was a joy driving up the 30km valley and seeing the high-altitude ski area getting closer and closer.

It is just a 50-minute drive from Innsbruck city centre.

Innsbruck Ski + City, Stubai. Image © PlanetSKI

It is a resort I know well and rate rather highly with its 65kms of runs.

It is Austria’s largest glacier area and in the past I have started my season here at the beginning of October and finished it in the second half of May.

Innsbruck Ski + City, Stubai. Image © PlanetSKI

Here are some stats:

• 36 runs (14 blues, 7 reds, 2 blacks)
• 26 lifts
• Longest run is Wilde Grub’n – 10kms with 1,500m of vertical
• Snowpark Stubai Zoo
• Viewing platform at 3,210m
• Intersport shops at base and on-mountain

We chose to head to Stubai as the temperatures were forecast to go up, so not much point in skiing at 2,000m when you can ski at 3,000m.

Also, it was mid-week so the crowds should be OK.

It was a busy car park as we headed up.

Innsbruck Ski + City, Stubai. Image © PlanetSKI

Some of the main slopes were crowded so I do what I always do in such circumstances: look for the slow lifts and ideally ones with a black run off the top.

The crowds tend to avoid such areas.

Once again it worked a treat and we had the slopes to ourselves.

Stubai, The Tirol. Image © PlanetSKI

With some of the most stunning views of the area.

Stubai, The Tirol. Image © PlanetSKI

At the base of the run I simply absorbed the wonderful high altitude mountain panoramas:

When a resort is busy you need to have lunch before 12 or after 2 – you’ll find a table and have some skiing in between on less crowded slopes.

We chose to lunch late and had no trouble finding a table in the sun.

Innsbruck Ski + City, Stubai. Image © PlanetSKI

Stubai is one of those great all-round ski areas with a family and beginner area, to go with the steeper stuff.

Innsbruck Ski + City, Stubai. Image © PlanetSKI

Innsbruck Ski + City, Stubai. Image © PlanetSKI

Innsbruck Ski + City, Stubai. Image © PlanetSKI

Stubai, The Tirol. Image © PlanetSKI

And here’s something I haven’t been able to do in a while due to the warm temperatures melting the snow at low altitude – ski back down to the base of a ski area.

Stubai, The Tirol. Image © PlanetSKI

And once again there were plenty of local buses taking people back to Innsbruck after a day on the slopes.

All included in the Ski+City pass.

Innsbruck Ski + City, Stubai. Image © PlanetSKI

Next up I’m visiting the ski area of Patscherkofel that is right above the city.

Look out for those reports later in the week here on PlanetSKI.

Innsbruck Ski + City, Patscherkofel. Image © PlanetSKI

Innsbruck Ski + City, Patscherkofel. Image © PlanetSKI

With a spot of city sightseeing after.

The Golden Roof and its museum.

Innsbruck Ski + City. Image © PlanetSKI

Innsbruck Ski + City. Image © PlanetSKI

Plus the neighbouring Innsbruck City Tower with its fabulous views of the city.

Innsbruck Ski + City. Image © PlanetSKI

After you have walked up the 133 steps inside the tower to get to the top.

Innsbruck Ski + City. Image © PlanetSKI

Wow.

Innsbruck Ski + City. Image © PlanetSKI

Innsbruck Ski + City. Image © PlanetSKI

Innsbruck Ski + City. Image © PlanetSKI

Do check back…

INNSBRUCK SKI+CITY INFO:

On the Ski+City Pass there’s the high-altitude glacier resort of Stubai, the ever-popular resort of Kuhtai + the hidden gems of Axamer Lizum and Schlick 2000.

Then some little-known ones off the beaten track:

• Patscherkofel
• Glungezer
• Bergeralm
• Muttereralm
• Hochetz
• Oberperfuss
• Serles
• Elfer
• Nordkette

13 ski areas with 296 kms of slopes, 50km of ski routes and all served by 111 lifts.

They are all within an hour of the city, some are under half an hour away and one, Nordkette, has its base lift station in the centre of Innsbruck itself.

It’s a 5-minute walk from the front door of the apartment PlanetSKI has rented.

Nordkette is situated at an altitude of 2,000m with some gentle beginner slopes and a super steep descent on the ‘Karinne’ – it’s a 70% gradient and for experts only.

You wouldn’t want to be in some of the resorts for a week-long holiday, but you don’t have to be on the Innsbruck City and Ski Pass – just a day will do, thank you very much.

Then there’s the 23 attractions on the Pass including the Bergisel ski jump, The Imperial Palace, Ambras Castle, the Golden Roof museum, the Alpenzoo, the Swarovski Crystal World in Watten, the Hofkirche and many, many more.

Innsbruck Ski + City, Axamer Lizum. Image © PlanetSKI