PlanetSKI in the West Country – Part Five
7th August 2024 | James Cove, the West Country.
Last modified on September 4th, 2024
We are often asked what PlanetSKI does in the summer months.
We’re pass the time until winter and rather enjoy it.
Judging from the views, reaction and comments readers seem interested in our summer activities, so on we post…
We’re currently on a visit to South Devon.
PlanetSKI in the West Country. Image © PlanetSKI.
Day Seven
All good things must come to an end, including PlanetSKI’s visit to South Devon.
We decided to prolong the pleasure on our way back to London with a short hike on Dartmoor.
First though it was a quick visit to the South Devon Railway on the edge of the moor.
Not quite the Glacier Express in Switzerland, but charming all the same.
PlanetSKI in the West Country. Image © PlanetSKI.
Then it was on to Dartmoor.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
Dartmoor covers 368 square miles and has been a National Park since 1951.
The landscape consists of moorland capped with many exposed granite hilltops.
The highest point is High Willhays 621 m (2,037 ft) above sea level.
We chose a short hike near Fingle Bridge.
Again, we’ll let the pictures do the talking.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
PlanetSKI in the West Country. Image © PlanetSKI.
PlanetSKI in the West Country. Image © PlanetSKI.
And so, our visit to South Devon draws to its conclusion.
Only one place to finish it as we head back to London.
PlanetSKI in the West Country. Image © PlanetSKI.
PlanetSKI in the West Country. Image © PlanetSKI.
As we observed earlier, we have always wanted to visit South Devon – but never quite had.
Like those visits to ski areas we have meant to see, but never quite have.
We did not leave disappointed.
Next up this summer we’re finishing off the South Downs Way and have a couple more legs to complete before we reach Winchester.
After we have recovered from our adventures in South Devon.
Do check back…
Day Five
Today we are back on the water after visits to Dartmouth and Totnes.
We’re kayaking and paddleboarding.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
We set off from the village of Newton Ferrers and went up the estuary to the sea where we came ashore at a small beach than can only be reached by water and then headed back to Newton Ferrers.
Round trip of 3-hours and we’ll let the pictures do the talking.
A picture is apparently worth 1,000 words after all.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
Next up is a hike on Dartmoor.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
Day Something or Other (Part 3).
Today was a visit to the historic naval town of Dartmouth & then to the town of Totnes that lies higher up the Dart Estuary.
Dartmouth fulfilled all expectations.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
The Britannia Royal Naval College sits on a hill above the town and was opened in 1905.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
Everything is centred around its position on the estuary, and in the 12th century merchants traded wine and wool.
The Pilgrim Fathers used Dartmouth as a port of call for the Mayflower on its way to America in 1620.
It has the UK’s only working coal fired paddle steamer.
That’s it through the archway.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
In a strange way it reminded my of one of my favourite cities in the Alps – Innsbruck in the Tirol in Austria.
Steeped in history, a major trade route and full of beauty and surprises.
Dartmouth Castle, at the estuary’s mouth, that has provided protection for the town for over 600 years.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
The main gun tower was built in 1493.
In 1891 heavy guns were added which could fire two and a quarter miles out to sea.
They remain in position today.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
The castle also housed the mechanism for a huge metal chain which could be raised across the harbour entrance to stop enemy ships entering.
The anchorage position on the far side can still be seen.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
Now if you want a Blue Plaque in you name then I suggest you don’t come from Dartmouth.
The bar is set rather high in this neck of the woods on what you need to have achieved in your life.
Step forward John Davis.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
No visit is complete with buying some fresh fish at the local market.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
And a visit to the town’s oldest pub is also a must.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
We found time for a quick visit to the town’s local beach, Blackpool Sands.
It is sheltered by cliffs and has an almost tropical feel to it with turquoise water and shingle sand.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
It felt like one of those gem ski resorts around Innsbruck – Axamer Lizum, Schlick 2000 or Glungeezer.
Then on to Totnes at the head of the estuary of the River Dart.
It’s another historic market town and was an important trade centre before the Norman Conquest in the 11th century.
It now has a sizeable ‘New Age’ community and apparently has gained something of a reputation as a hotspot for conspiracy theorists.
We headed to the castle that was founded in 1068 and is one of the oldest castles in England.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
It had been a day of town visits and next we are back on water.
Kayaking and paddle boarding in Newton Ferrers to be precise.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
Do check back…
Day Two or Day Three? (Part Two)
Who knows, but we are out on the Kingsbridge estuary heading to Salcombe on the 10.50 ferry from the Crabshell Inn in Kingsbridge.
Technically it is not actually an estuary, even though everyone calls it one.
An estuary requires a river to be flowing into it and the Kingsbridge estuary does not have one.
No matter.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
Welcome aboard the ‘Lady Mary’.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
It is like taking one of those long slow gondola lifts in the mountains where you just gaze out of the windows soaking up the scenery:
- Brides Les Bains to Meribel in France.
- Zermatt on the Matterhorn Express in Switzerland.
- Encamp to Soldeu in Andorra.
Journey time Kingsbridge to Salcombe: 35-minutes.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
Salcombe grew into view.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
The town is close to the mouth of the estuary on the west side.
Its long waterfront and naturally sheltered harbour led to its success as a port and centre for maritime trade and industry over the centuries.
It is one of the most famous tourist spots in this part of the world.
Salcombe first appears in records in 1244, on the boundaries of Batson and West Portlemouth.
In 1570, there were 56 mariners, while two years later, another survey shows five ships under 60 tons at Salcombe.
There is little record of the town between 1650 and 1750, but it is thought that the inhabitants lived by fishing and smuggling.
In 1764, the first holiday home, The Moult, was built in Salcombe.
It was the start of what was to become Salcombe’s biggest industry – tourism.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
The views across the mouth of the estuary are simply stunning.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
And out beyond?
There are several shipwrecks off Salcombe:
- The oldest is of a bronze age, one of only three known in Britain, which had weapons and jewelry made in what is now France.
- The Salcombe cannon wreck is a 17th-century ship that contained 400 Moroccan gold coins and Dutch items.
- In 1936, a Finnish four-masted vessel the Haerzogin Cecille ran aground on the Ham Stone and was subsequently beached at Starehole Bay, near Bolt Head.
Some vessels currently of the water in Salcombe were bigger than others.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
The Elsian is a £63m luxury super-yacht owned by American billionaire businessman and owner of Liverpool football club, John W. Henry.
I thought it was rather vulgar and personally I prefer something a little smaller and more genuine.
Like The Lady Mary.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
The last journey of the day for Lady Mary back to Kingsbridge left Salcombe shortly after lunch at 14.10.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
Any later and the tide would be out and the Lady Mary, would not have been able to reach Kingsbridge.
It was back into relaxation heaven, gazing from our vessel to some of the other ones bobbing about on the water.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
The departure from Salcombe to catch the tide meant there were still a few hours left in the afternoon, so a visit to nearby Bigbury-on-Sea beckoned and then on to Burgh Island.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
At high tide it becomes an island and the only way to get on and off it is by this sand-tractor, the only one of its kind.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
The beach is fabulous and has views to Bantham beach that we planned to visit later.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
We hiked to the top of Burgh Island, and though not quite like our summer hikes in the mountains of the Alps and Pyrenees, it gave some truly spectacular views.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
Then there is the famous Burgh Island Hotel where Agatha Christie stayed and wrote.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
It has been frequented by many other famous people including The Beatles and Winston Churchill.
Agatha Christie made Burgh Island her second home, writing two books on the island.
- Evil Under the Sun
- And Then There Were None
The hotel is famous for its art deco style, but is off limits to non-residents.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
Instead, we took refreshment in The Pilchard Inn, that first served beer in 1336.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
And it’s still serving beer almost eight centuries later.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
More about the beaches and pubs of South Devon later.
We’d visited two crackers today, the Ferry Inn at Salcombe.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
And the Pilchard Inn on Burgh Island.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
We decided to go for a hatrick, with dinner at the Crabshell Inn back in Kingsbridge.
Our day had gone full circle.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
It was like a last lingering apres ski beer and dinner, as the sun sets over the mountains.
It was about as good as it gets – apart from being in the mountains of course.
Next up we’re heading to the historic town of Dartmouth.
Today’s visit to Salcombe had whet our appetite for similar to follow.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
PlanetSKI in South Devon. Image © PlanetSKI.
Do check back…
Day One (Part One).
We know Cornwall well and have been to North Devon many a time, but never South Devon.
Time to put that right.
Our journey down involved a stay over in Wiltshire as we visited the local artist Martin Cobb in Potterne.
He is an avid PlanetSKI reader and great friend of ours.
He was hosting one of the most bizarre ‘private viewings’ that we have experienced as he invited a select group to his gallery.
PlanetSKI in the West Country. Image © PlanetSKI.
It was also his front room.
It was boarded up to display his art and we were invited to bring a curry and enjoy his art while some whale music played.
That’s the West Country for you.
PlanetSKI in the West Country. Image © PlanetSKI.
Before the dinner was an afternoon on Bradford-upon-Avon with another local artist and PlanetSKI reader, Mark Sommerville.
“Now I know you love skiing in Canada, well this building was designed by the Canadian architect Thomas Fuller,” said Mark to me.
“He went on to design the Central Block of Canada’s Parliament Buildings and San Francisco’s City Hall that was destroyed in the earthquake of 1906.”
PlanetSKI in the West Country. Image © PlanetSKI.
The river Avon runs through the picturesque village of Bradford-upon-Avon.
PlanetSKI in the West Country. Image © PlanetSKI.
More about the Avon later as we saw it a few days later as it slipped into the sea in South Devon.
Though we had to time our drive with the tide along the narrow roads in deepest Devon.
PlanetSKI in the West Country. Image © PlanetSKI.
PlanetSKI’s base in South Devon is the tiny hamlet of Woodleigh to the north of Kingsbridge.
PlanetSKI in the West Country. Image © PlanetSKI.
It has a population 153.
Along with:
- 1Phone box – it doubles up as a library and home for a defibrillator.
PlanetSKI in the West Country. Image © PlanetSKI.
- 1 post box – collection times remain daily, except on Sunday.
PlanetSKI in the West Country. Image © PlanetSKI.
- 1 church – St Marys, founded in 1180.
PlanetSKI in the West Country. Image © PlanetSKI.
- Zero pubs- but more of the wonderful local Devon pubs later.
It reminded me of one of those small isolated ski villages that we stumble across on our road trips round random ski resorts in the winter months.
I’m thinking of Axamer Lizum, Glungeezer and Schlick 2000 in Austria.
Innsbruck Ski + City, Axamer Lizum. Image © PlanetSKI
Now when at Martin’s dinner in Potterne we purchased one of his works.
Look how well it fits in above the Aga in our rented cottage in Woodleigh:
PlanetSKI in the West Country. Image © PlanetSKI.
Glebe cottage is owned and run by PlanetSKI readers, Ian and Cathy Anderson.
PlanetSKI in the West Country. Image © PlanetSKI.
We hooked up in Alpbach in the Tirol in Austria last winter.
Alpbach, Austria. Image © PlanetSKI.
They mentioned they run a holiday cottage in Devon and several months later here we are.
Ski connections really are the best.
Now the title for this page was Day One and we seem to have covered two days.
No matter, PlanetSKI is in ‘summer mode’.
Hiking, kayaking, paddleboarding, beaches and visits to Dartmouth, Totnes, Dartmoor and much more to come.
Plus, some of those great Devon pubs.
Do check back as we continue to enjoy and revel in summer.
PlanetSKI in the West Country. Image © PlanetSKI.
Who says PlanetSKI only lives for winter?
