Chamonix in the Summer

13th June 2023 | Claire McAteer, Chamonix

Last modified on June 19th, 2023

Chamonix has a real buzz in the summer and a completely different vibe than winter. You even see the occasional skier crossing the square returning from a high-altitude adventure.

Our reporting team of Claire and Rob McAteer is staying at Camping Les Arolles in their VW camper.

The family-run site is one of the last remaining camp grounds in Chamonix itself and attracts outdoor enthusiasts from all over the world from climbers, hikers and mountain bikers.

Here’s their story so far:

Chamonix in the summer. Image © Claire McAteer

The campsite is perfectly situated to make the most of Chamonix.

You can walk into the main town in just a few minutes past the most gorgeous chalets and buildings, this time surrounded by beautiful summer flowers rather than snow.

Chamonix in the Summer. Image © PlanetSKI

Plus waking up to view of the Bossons glacier interspersed with multiple paragliders making the most of the morning light winds is pretty special.

Chamonix in the Summer. Image © PlanetSKI

Mer de Glace – charming cog wheel train from Chamonix at 1,035m to Montenvers Station at an altitude of 1,913m and some incredible views en route and at the top.

Chamonix in the Summer. Image © PlanetSKI

From the Montenvers you can see the North face of the Grandes Jorsses at the ends of the Leschaux Glacier.

We are here to hike and mountain bike.

Chamonix in the summer. Image © Claire McAteer

We eased ourselves in gently with the Grand Balcon Sud hike, which gives spectacular views of Mont Blanc.

Crossing wooded ravines, high meadows and wide rocky expanses, it was truly one of the best hikes of our lives making clever use of the available gondolas to gain altitude of some incredible views.

We were treated to a rare sighting of ibex, marmot, plus multiple birds of prey.

Chamonix in the summer. Image © Claire McAteer

Some snow was still lingering which made for an entertaining finish to a beautiful walk.

We also did the Lac Cornu hike which takes you away from Chamonix valleys, villages and lift systems for what feels a much higher, wilder and quieter hike.

Heading up the La Flégère cable car and Index lift, we started the walk on a wide ski trail towards the Col de la Glière, which is quite surreal in the summer seeing what lies beneath the usually groomed white pistes.

After a relatively steep climb, you get your breath back to admire the panorama to enjoy the view of the Aiguille Vert, which is directly in front and incredible.

There’s two lake areas – Lac Cornu and Lac Noir – both worth the hike.

Lac Cornu we braved the icy waters for a rejuvenating swim at Lac Cornu surrounded by the Roches des Fiz on one side and the majestic view of the Mont Blanc on the other.

For a bigger walk, you can combine the Lac Cornu walk with the Grand Balcon Sud.

After a day well spent, we deserved a treat and our favourite apres ski burger joint was the obvious choice.

We can confirm the H Poco Loco special – complete with hash brown – is just as good in summer as it is in ski season.

Chamonix has a real mix of trails for riders of every ability with a variety of easy and picturesque trails in different areas of the 16km Chamonix valley.

There is lift access available for those interested in more downhill riding, that are open from mid-June to mid-September.

It’s not as developed as some of the other ski resorts, and there are some restrictions with shared areas with waters, with some trails closed in July and August to mountain bikes.

We chose to bike along the river L’Arve, a beautifully flat route (to give our tired legs a rest) taking in many of the small villages that make up the Chamonix valley.

You also wind through stunning forest which can offer a great break from the sun too, which despite the weather forecast saying storms, was glorious 28 degree sunshine.