Skiing in Norway – Part Two

16th April 2013

Last modified on August 31st, 2021

The growing popularity of the Alps, the UK economic situation, expensive local prices and a poor exchange rate have combined with a lack of marketing and promotion to ensure a fall in British numbers to Norway in recent years.

It was in danger of being forgotten about by UK skiers.

Next winter though Crystal Ski, the largest UK tour operator, is offering it again with a weekly charter flight available. Other tour companies are also looking again at Norway.

With this in mind the PlanetSKI content editor, James Cove, decided to visit the Norwegian resorts of Geilo, Hemsedal and Beitostolen.

So what is skiing in Norway like?

For the first PlanetSKI blog from Norway see here.

The country prides itself on family skiing so he took his 13-year old son Max with him to see if it is all that it is cracked up to be.

Father and son on tour.

Boys on tour. Image © PlanetSKI

There and back.

When Norwegians talk about skiing then don’t mean downhill skiing; they mean the cross-country variety.

And no visit to Norway is complete without an attempt at it.

In for a penny, in for a pound was the attitude of Max and myself.

We could have just gone for a short introductory ski but decided to be a bit more ambitious, despite the fact that Max had never once put on cross-country skis.

We opted for a 7km trip to the Tuva hut near Geilo, an overnight stay and then a 16.5km trek back.

It turned out to be the best decision we made, though we didn’t think so as we set off at 4pm after a day on the downhill slopes.

The weather had closed in and not only was the visibility poor but the wind had whipped up, snow came down and the initial flat section over a lake soon turned into a steep trudge uphill.

We found a rythm and plodded on. And on.

Max heads on. Image © PlanetSKI

The trick is to glide the ski rather lift it in order to conserve as much energy as possible.

Two and a half hours later the hut appeared out of the mist.

It was a welcome sight.

Tuva Hut. Image © PlanetSKI

The hut is run by Aileen and Pete Schindewolf. It has been in the family for three generations and they have been through each winter since 1975.

It is a tough but rewarding life.

Tuva Hut. Image © PlanetSKI

“It is hard when the weather closes in and we have to rely on our wits and skills but this is one of the most beautiful places in our beautiful country,” Pete tells us as we all huddled round the warm wood-burning stove.

The hut sleeps 40, when the dormitory block is full, but the Tuva Hut has housed 87.

“In the wilderness you do not turn people away when they need shelter,” Pete said. “People bedded down all over the place but they were warm and as comfortable as they could be.”

The hut is famous throughout Norway for its waffles.

Some claim they are the best in the country though Aileen is more modest.

Waffle. Image © PlanetSKI

“It is up to others to make those sort of claims,” she tells us. “People have wanted to buy the recipe but it is not for sale.”

The recipe is a secret one handed down the generations from her grandmother and now known only to two living people; Aileen and her sister.

It is written down and kept in a bank vault in the Hol Bank in Geilo. Pete holds a key to the safe deposit box should something happen to the two sisters, though he is not allowed to open it except in emergency.

I tried to get a few clues from Aileen.

“How many ingredients are there?” I casually asked.

She thought for a moment.

“Quite a few,” was her guarded response.

“Under ten?” I enquired.

“Maybe.”

All I managed to extract was that it was nearer six than 10, the mixture was stirred with a metal whisk rather than a wooden spoon and it had to be done anti-clockwise.

Or so she said.

So are they the best in Norway?

Max was too busy eating them to answer but the look on his face gave it away.

After our waffle breakfast it was time for the journey back.

As we arrived back at our hotel in Geilo there was time for a much-needed shower.

We packed quickly and headed off to out next stop.

The ski resort of Hemsedal.

It turned out to be a revelation.

For a video report on the visit of James and Max then see below.

FACT BOX

James and Max travelled with Crystal Ski.

For more information about the holidays that Crystal is offering to Norway for the 2013/14 winter season then see here.

Geilo
Crystal Ski (0871 231 2256; www.crystalski.co.uk) offers a week’s stay at the three-star Geilolia Apartments in Geilo from £1441 for a family of four including direct flights from Gatwick to Fagernes and transfers, departing 5 January 2014. Special limited offer on selected dates: 2for1 lift pass. Free kids place.

For the spirit of the mountains