Sainte Foy: Not Hidden Any More, But Still a Gem

PlanetSKI editor James Cove has finally skied in a resort he first wanted to ski in over 25 years ago.

The resort sits above the road up to Val d’Isere and Tignes from Bourg-st-Maurice.

The resort opened in 1990 and it remains the last ski resort that opened in France.

It’s likely to hold that accolade for a long time to come.

It was talked about in hushed tones, by those in-the-know back in the 90s.

It was the genuine ‘hidden gem’.

Now it is known to many thousands, but still has the feeling of somewhere frequented by those with inside knowledge.

Ski instructors from nearby Val d’Isere and Tignes still come here on their days off.

It has legendary off piste terrain, and I use the word ‘legendary’ carefully.

It looked good for my first visit as I flung open the curtains of the Premiere Neige chalet I was staying in.

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

The British operator dominates the UK market here, currently with 22 properties and 160 beds, though this fluctuates from season to season.

We posted about Premiere Neige earlier this season on PlanetSKI:

More about the British success story of Premiere Neige later.

I am on my very first, and very long-overdue, visit.

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

Sainte Foy was not quite what I expected.

In fact it was not at all what I expected.

The superb off piste was no great surprise, but others areas of Sainte Foy were:

  • The piste skiing
  • The family skiing
  • The village itself

First though lets look at what the resort is most famous for.

The Off Piste

It has been a bit of a bumper season here with huge amounts of snow at the beginning of the season and into January.

The resort is north-west facing so does not get hammered by the sun.

The resort itself is a decent enough height at 1,550m, with the lifts going up to, 2,622m.

The Pointe de la Folietta is at 2.930m and people hike that way to access the best off piste.

Evidence remains of the snowfall.

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

“Overall it has been an excellent winter for snow with the heavy falls earlier on, and superb piste maintenance by the resort,” said the founder of Premiere Neige, Fiona Harvey.

“It’s a shame we haven’t had any fresh powder snow recently, but it will come.”

Fiona Harvey. Image © Premiere Neige.

Fiona Harvey. Image © Premiere Neige.

The off piste terrain was not a surprise – I expected it to be exceptional and so it proved to be.

The easily accessible stuff sits on the main front face bowl, above and in between the lifts.

There is some excellent tree skiing lower down.

Ste Foy piste map

Ste Foy piste map

Sadly the conditions were not right for any serious adventures on my swift visit, but we ventured off the marked runs near the pistes where there was plenty of coverage and, though tracked out, there were a few pockets of the fresh stuff.

On the steeps the snow was chalky and grippy

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

Over the back was the real stuff – accessed by booting uphill or traversing round the side.

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

Though the conditions weren’t right to ski it, I could take a look.

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

Further round and off the L’Aiguille lift, there is another bowl.

Then it was back to the accessible terrain.

Parts of it reminded me of Kicking Horse – my favourite resort in Canada.

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

The area is covered by the castex avalanche detonation system with pylons and wires over the danger spots.

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

“If there is an incident the whole of the front bowl is visible to the pisteurs and the lift operators, so help would be on hand swiftly,” said Fiona.

“There is rarely any incident, but it does give that added feeling of security.”

And with that it was back to the first surprise of my visit – the piste skiing.

The Piste Skiing

The piste skiing, for which  Sainte Foy is not perhaps reknowned, is little short of exceptional in my opinion.

There isn’t a vast amount of slopes like some of its neighbouring resorts – Val d’Isere, Tignes, Les Arcs & La Rosiere – but what it may lack in quantity it certainly makes up for in quality.

We were off.

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

The groomed runs are full of banks & rollers, there’s varying steepness, huge variety of runs/terrain with top level grooming.

Oh, and very few people around.

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

There’s steep stuff at the top and great runs through the trees lower down.

I have just come over from Les3Vallees where the queues were horrendous in places.

See my earlier report as I attempted to ski all the resorts in L3V in a day:

There were no queues in Sainte Foy.

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

The map does no justice whatsoever – it looks somewhat limited, but it absolutely is not.

Ste Foy piste map

Ste Foy piste map

Here’s my snow report that takes in my views of the piste skiing in Sainte Foy

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

And if you want to spread your wings and have a day hammering round one its neighbouring large ski areas (Val d’Isere, Tignes, Les Arcs or La Rosiere) then you can pick up a day pass for the discounted rate of €39 (£33.50) with a 6-day Sainte Foy lifts pass.

That’s Tignes in the distance and a short drive away.

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

Les Arcs is opposite Sainte Foy, across the valley.

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

And what about lunch on the mountain I hear you ask?

There’s a handful of authentic mountain restaurants.

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

Family Skiing

This was one aspect of the resort that perhaps surprised me the most.

I had not idea it catered so well for families and youngsters.

There’s a couple of magic carpets and a beginner area in the village.

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

 

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI.

The nursery slopes are free with well-priced lift passes.

Older kids can explore the ski area on their own as all runs lead back to the village.

“Our clients tell us they feel so at ease when they holiday with us in Sainte Foy,” said Fiona.

“The kids can explore the quiet pistes without the worry that’s associated with the overrun larger ski resorts.

“There’s also lots of fun, varied ski terrain for young kids as well as older children.

“With a fantastic variety of runs including nursery learner slopes, lots of wide blues and reds for the little ones.”

It’s a resort for kids and experts.

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

And lets not forget this:

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

 

Seems adults can join in too.

The Village

The main Sainte Foy village is a purpose- built affair, but done in style.

Image c/o Premiere Neige

Image c/o Premiere Neige

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

If you are after lively apres ski and nightclubs then go elsewhere.

But don’t think there isn’t good off the slopes drinking and eating in the evening.

Here’s the St Germain bar:

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

And don’t forget to sample the nibbles with a local brew.

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

A meal in 1580 at the very top of the village is worth the walk.

Don’t forget to sample its home brewed beer. If you ask the barmaid you get a taster.

There is always three on offer each night:

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

Then have a bigger one with your meal:

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

The ribs come recommended.

If anyone can tell me of another resort that offers truly world-class off piste, superb piste skiing, very decent slopes & facilities for families and all wrapped up in a great village without crowds then I’d be very pleased to hear.

Premiere Neige in Sainte Foy:

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

Premiere Neige started with just two properties.

As well as first class ski accommodation, the emphasis at Première Neige is on a personal first-class service and ensuring all guests enjoy a memorable holiday in the mountains.

See here for full details: Premiere Neige

  • Biggest independent chalet operator exclusively in Sainte Foy with 22 properties and appx 160 beds. We pride ourselves on great service, quality properties and our longstanding intimate knowledge of Sainte Foy.

Oh, and for the record I stayed at Chalet Marigold.

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

Not bad, eh?

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI

Sainte Foy, France. Image © PlanetSKI