PlanetSKI Rounds Up its Two Week Ski Safari Around Sapporo

26th February 2025 | James Cove, Hokkaido, Japan.

Last modified on March 1st, 2025

We have been based in the Japanese city skiing all the main ski areas nearby and much else besides. Here we re-produce all our posts in a single chronological blog as we head elsewhere on Hokkaido.

The northern island of Hokkaido in Japan is home to dozens of resorts, from the more famous ones of Niseko, Furano and Rusutsu.

Through to the lesser-known ones of Kiroro, Kokusai and the wonderfully-named Mount Racey.

We’ve been skiing as many of them as we can in our three week visit that is continuing.

Hokkaido ski areas. Image c/o Hokkaido tourist office.

For the past two weeks we have been blogging and updating from our base in the city of Sapporo.

We have now headed across the island to take a break from the skiing for a few days to discover more about Hokkaido – horse racing, bird watching and simply getting off the main tourist track.

PlanetSKI continues its tour of Japan, but away from the slopes

We will be based in the ski resort of Furano later this week and skiing all the nearby areas, so look out for those posts.

In the meantime we re-produce our posts from Sapporo, in chronological order.

BLOG POST NUMBER ONE

The omens for the snow in the nearby mountains looked good as we drove into the city of Sapporo.

Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

And in the city centre:

So, why does Japan, and Hokkaido in particular, receive so much snow?

Basically, very cold and dry air comes from Siberia in Russia to the west.

It passes over the Sea of Japan where is sucks up moisture.

Another major weather system comes from the east with a different pressure system and the two collide over the mountains of Hokkaido.

Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

The result – JaPow!

Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

On average the resorts near Sapporo receive over 8m a season, while further inland it is 4m.

It is also usually very cold, so the powder is light and dry.

The Hokkaido ski areas roughly divides into three:

There are the resorts around Sapporo – Teine, Bankeu, Kokusai and Kiroro.
Then the ones deeper into the mountains – Niseko, with its four ski areas, and Rusutsu.
To the east there is – Furano, Tomamu, Sahoro and Kamui.

Rusutsu, Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Regular readers who have been following our posts from Japan will know we are interested in far more than just the skiing while we are in Japan.

We’ve been up the city’s most famous landmark, the Sapporo TV Tower.

Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Plus visited the nearby town of Otaru with its Western Art Museum.

Rather bizarrely it exhibits stained glass, furniture, porcelain and glass work from Europe from the late 19^th Century to the early 20^th Century.

Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

The snow falling in Otaru at the base of the mountains certainly whet our appetite for the skiing nearby to come.

Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

And then there is the Japanese food – once again it is simply off the scale.

Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

But the menus can be, er, challenging.

Here is so-called Ramen Alley in Sapporo.

Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

We have taken advice on the use of chopsticks from Eri Kikuo who works for one of the main hotels in the ski area of Furano, the Shin Furano Prince Hotel.

Eri has also offered invaluable help to plan PlanetSKI’s 3-week visit to Hokkaido.

We’re off to a cracker.

Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

It’s already shaping up to be PlanetSKI’s best ever overseas adventure ski trip, and it’s fair to say that we’ve had a few over the years.

Check out our earlier reports from the Hakuba Valley:

Hakuba Valley, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

And Tokyo:

Tokyo, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

BLOG POST NUMBER TWO

Saturday 15th February

Our first ski stop in Hokkaido was the ski area of Sapporo Teine.

Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

It’s just a 30-minute drive from our apartment in Sapporo.

Teine has 10 lifts and 15 runs with a vertical drop of 683m.

There is tree skiing, a terrain park and fabulous views of Ishikari Bay.

Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

It also has the famous ‘North Wall’ run which is one of the steepest in Japan with a maximum incline of 36 degrees.

But best of all it is simply in Japan – a place I am utterly falling in love with.

Here is my first ever video snow report from Hokkaido:

And some of those views:

Lift passes come in at good value in Japan.

A 5-hour pass for Sapporo Teine cost the princely sum of £27.

Not bad for half a day of fun.

Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

And today’s ‘random Japanese experience’ ?

I have seen a few strange sights in my visits round the ski resorts of the world, but I have never come across a derelict fun fair up on the slopes.

Until I visited Sapporo Teine that is.

Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Japan is simply full of surprises.

But one thing that is a constant is the ramen.

It is off the scale every time.

Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

BLOG POST NUMBER THREE

Sunday 16th February

Next we hit Kiroro.

There were huge amounts of snow on the drive to the resort – evidence of the winter so far in this part of Japan.

Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Sadly there was no fresh powder for our day, but we’ll be back when there is.

Kiroro has 10 lifts, 23 runs and has a vertical descent of 660m.

It also has five areas set aside for tree skiing – should conditions allow.

Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

The resort is on the Indy Pass and as I hold an Indy Pass I was able to pick passes up – two days are provided so I am hoping to be back for that powder day.

Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

There are several resorts in Hokkaido on the Indy Pass and I am hoping to visit a few more, including Kamui, Yubari, Nayoro and Pippu.

Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Interestingly Club Med has a huge presence in the resort with the Club Med Kiroro Grand that opened in 2023.

It has 266 rooms and is a sign of growing international interest in the area.

Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Snowsports growing rapidly in Asia

Kiroro is less high profile than other Hokkaido resorts, but it claims to receive more consistent snowfall than nearby Niseko and Rusutsu.

It is spread over two peaks with the pistes are varied and well-groomed, but the real appeal of Kiroro ski holidays is its Powder Zone and off-piste.

There’s no real village at Kiroro.

Instead, there are two resort-style hotels with shops, restaurants and facilities that include swimming pools, onsens and karaoke.

You’ve also got the Mountain Centre at the base of the slopes, with a ski rental shop, café and kids’ area.

“It’s relatively under-the-radar with deep powder, quiet slopes and fantastic tree runs off pistet,” said the Japan producer manager for Ski Safari, Andy Knights.

It’s a great mid-sized resort, just one hour from Niseko and Rusutsu, Kiroro offers wide groomers and excellent off-piste potential.”

And today’s ‘random Japanese experience’?

Bingo played as an apres ski activity in the centre of the main lodge.

Only in Japan.

Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

BLOG POST NUMBER FOUR

Tuesday 18th February:

Next stop Kokusai.

Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Inside the day lodge it was old-school and fabulous for it.

Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

With some wonderful old poster on the walls.

This place has been offering skiing for decades.

Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

A day pass set us back the princely sum of £20.

I thought that was about right given the size of the ski area.

Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Three main lifts, a gondola and two chairlifts.

There was 1 black run, 3 reds and a couple of greens.

But piste maps can be deceiving, as there was plenty of skiing for our day.

Besides skiing in Japan is about far more than going up a lift and down a few runs on snow – it is about the experience and character of skiing somewhere entirely different.

Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

At the top there were wind breakers for when the storms roll in and the winds blow, which they do on a regular basis.

Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

There was some steep and challenging off piste from the top.

Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Or one could stick to the marked runs.

Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Once again there were a large numbers of snowboarders on the slopes, as there have been in many of the Japanese resorts we’ve visited so far.

Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

The ski school in Kokusai was on another level with hundreds of people out taking lessons.

It may have been a bit crazy on the slopes, but look how they stack their skis at lunchtime.

Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

It was today’s ‘random Japanese experience’.

Along with some more interesting Japanese ski wear.

Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Oh, and while we are on the subject of ski schools here are the assembled classes in the resort of Sapporo Teine that we were in a few days ago – gathering for their afternoon lessons with much bowing and greetings going on.

It took it to another level.

Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

And as we left Kokusai?

More snow started falling.

Again.

Next stop is the slightly better-known resort of Niseko.

The biggest and most well-known resort in Japan that attracts skiers and snowboarders from around the world.

Do check back…

Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

BLOG POST NUMBER FIVE

Wednesday 19th February:

Heavy snow was falling at 8am as we set off from Sapporo to head to Niseko.

However the snow had closed some roads and a journey time of 2 hours was predicted to be at least 3 and half.

Time to bin the plan and come up with an alternative.

We decided to head to the city’s local ski mountain, Sapporo Teine, instead.

But not before a visit to the Hokkaido Jingu Shinto Shrine that we have been wanting to visit for days, but have never quite found the time.

Well, now we had a spare hour or so and in the snow it was truly stunning.

In the Spring it has some of the finest cherry blossoms on the whole of Hokkaido and tens of thousands of people flock here for the spectacle.

Well, we think it looks rather good in the snow too.

Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

The shrine was established in 1869 and is home to four deities.

The shinto shrine is situated in the Matyuama Park and the four deities include the soul of the Emperor Meiji.

A number of early explorers of Hokkaidō are also enshrined.

Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

As our visit to Niseko had been put on hold, another Japanese opportunity arose – every cloud has a silver lining.

Next stop, some skiing at Sapporo Teine.

The road was snowy, but passable on the way up.

Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

While on the mountain it was chucking it down with snow – again.

Time for a snow report:

And at the end of the day many of the vehicles in the car park needed to be cleaned of the day’s snow.

Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

And the snow ploughs too.

Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

On Thursday we are going to make another attempt to reach Niseko and report back.

If the snow conditions allow us to get there.

Watch this space…

Sapporo, Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Now talking of roads and driving, we have had a question from PlanetSKI reader, Erica Ansell, over on the PlanetSKI Facebook page.

“Loving seeing your posts as we are hoping to ski in Japan next year.

“How easy is driving out there?

“We have been before in summer but used the bullet trains which were fantastic.”

And here is our answer:

“We hired a car for two weeks as we visited the resorts in the Hakuba Valley and then for three weeks in Hokkaido.

“We wouldn’t do it any other way, as it gives you the freedom to move around at will.

“For longer journeys across Japan take the bullet train or fly unless you have plenty of time.

“In the Hakuba Valley we hired at Tokyo airport (both NTS & HND as there have been two groups to our team) and you need to ensure you get winter tyres. We used Sixt as they offered winter tyres in drop down menu.

“In Hokkaido winter tyres come as standard whoever you rent from, along with 4-wheel drive.

“Chains are not needed.

“In Hakuba there were a couple of days when it belted down with snow so we took the hotel shuttle bus, but we would have been OK in our cars.

“On Hokkaido we have driven the whole time and though it may be daunting at first with all the snow (and there has been a lot of it), you soon get used to it.

“There are public transport options from Sapporo (our current base) and taxis, but having your own car is much easier. Parking is cheap too.

“It really depends on how many resorts you visit – we are doing different ones every day, so a car is the best.

“If you just go to Niseko for a week then don’t bother.

“In Hokkaido we have been using Times Rental who are all over Japan, but be warned that at Chitois airport they close at 7pm.

“Our flight from Tokyo was delayed by several hours and we arrived at 7.30pm.

“All was shut so we had to get a hotel room and picked up the next day, though they refunded us for one un-used day.

“Don’t forget to get an International Driving License and watch out for the signals at traffic lights as they are beyond the junction not before it.

Hope that helps.

Best wishes,

Team PlanetSKI.

BLOG POST NUMBER SIX

Friday 21st February:

Next Stop Niseko – finally.

Niseko has a reputation being one the world’s top resorts and I’ve been wanting to ski it for years.

Make that decades.

It is the largest linked ski area in Japan with 31 lifts and 77 marked runs.

Then there’s the tree skiing and the legendary back country.

Not forgetting the food, the onsens and the scenery.

But most of all the huge amounts of dry powder snow that falls each winter without fail.

Plans were taking shape for a PlanetSKI visit in 2020, but then Covid came along.

On this trip I have tried to visit several times so far in the past couple of weeks I have been on the northern island of Hokkaido.

Once a hospital visit for an X-ray (long story with a happy ending) scuppered it, and then heavy snow on the roads prevented it.

A few days before we were due to leave the city of Sapporo and head to the resorts further inland in Hokkaido the weather lifted.

It was now or never.

It was a 2-hour drive from our base in the city Sapporo, and the weather/roads couldn’t have been better.

The expressway was closed 24-hours earlier, but the snowploughs had been doing their stuff.

Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

In the mountains too, the roads were clear.

Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Before you could say “JaPow” I was on the slopes of Niseko and gazing across to Mt Yotei in near-perfect conditions.

Niseko, Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

The resort of Niseko is made up of four linked areas:

Annupuri – 6 lifts and 13 trails
Niseko Village – 9 lifts and 30 trails
Grand Hirafu – 12 lifts and 22 trails
Hanazono – 4 lifts and 12 trails

All the areas have extensive and accessible skiing in the trees.

Niseko, Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Then there is cat skiing and back country tours.

Sometimes when I have been looking forward to ski in resort, it doesn’t quite live up to expectations.

Not so Niseko.

It lived up to my hopes and more – with plenty of superb tree skiing and some wide cruising pistes.

Niseko, Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

The hard-core were booting up to Mt Niseko Annupuri at 1,308m to hit some of the legendary powder fields off the back, but I was keen to see the whole resort on my visit.

Niseko, Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

The back country can wait until next time, and I know there will be a next time.

Another expectation of Niseko lived up to what I had heard,.

But I would rather it hadn’t.

It’s famous lift queues were around for much of the day on my mid-week visit.

At weekends it can be pretty horrific I am told.

Niseko, Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

The words of Andy Knights from Ski Safari, who helped us plan our stay in Hokkaido, were ringing in my cold ears.

“Niseko is one of my favourite resorts, with the most reliable snow record of any resort I know,” said Andy.

“Not forgetting to mention it is a foodie’s heaven, and soaking in the onsen after a day’s skiing can’t be topped.”

“With around 14 metres of snow falling each season, the skiing here is exceptional.

“Look forward to ungroomed bowls and world-class tree runs (Strawberry Fields is amazing), while the Niseko Gates lead to unpatrolled terrain that’s best explored with a guide.”

See here for more information about Niseko from Andy and Ski Safari.

Each resort I have visited on this 5-week trip in Japan seems to throw up a random Japanese experience and Niseko was no exception.

This time it was the resort’s one-person chairlifts.

Niseko, Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

I headed straight for the nearest one, like a kid with some new toys to play with.

And what views:

There are limited mountain restaurants and the best bet is to head to base of the resort for lunch, but there are great spots on the mountain for a quick break.

Now it should be said that some believe Niseko is over-developed and has lost its soul.

“I have been coming here for 15 years and boy it has changed,” said an Australian snowboarder I was chatting to on a (2-person) chairlift.

“We used to get as much noodles and saki as you could drink for $10 back in the day, but now in one fancy hotel it is $65 for a pretty grotty cheeseburger.

“I will keep coming back though as the snow remains the same despite the arrival of the international hotel chains and the venture capitalists & internet entrepreneurs with their bulging wallets.”

All in all for me – what a day.

And guess what happened as we left?

Yup, more snow started to fall.

Japan just keeps on giving.

Next stop is going to be Rusutsu, just down the road from Niseko.

Do check back…

Update:

Here’s some further advice on Niseko from PlanetSKI reader, Mark Coomber, who has read our posts and added his thoughts to the PlanetSKI Facebook page.

We skied Niseko in 2019 (before it became too busy). The food was a highlight. As was Tokyo for a few days on our return leg.

If you can, and haven’t done so already, try the relatively nearby (45 mins) Rusutsu and Kiroro resorts.

But take a guide to access the best / hidden bits.

And you must experience an onsen.

Preferably an outdoor one, in the woods and while it’s snowing lightly.

With a can of Saporro lager and your ‘modesty towel’ folded on your head!

Magical.

Oh, and in down town Niseko, I’d recommend ‘the fridge bar’.

That’s not its real name but its front door is an oldsyle US fridge front door.

Just remember to duck as you enter!

Oh #2: your lift pass will also cover the night skiing.

That is a must.

Especially skiing the trees at night under floodlights.

BLOG POST NUMBER SEVEN

Monday 24th February:

And so to Rusutsu.

It’s a drive of under an hour from Niseko or 2 hours from Sapporo, and it is truly spectacular.

Rusutsu is perhaps my favourite resort in this part of Hokkaido, but I will make that judgement after a bit of reflection.

Today was a Japan road trip on Hokkaido at its absolute finest.

Blue sky overhead, crisp and clear roads, with the most fabulous views.

The roadside avalanche breakers are witness to the huge amounts of snow that has fallen so far this winter.

Rusutsu gets as much snow, if not more, than its more internationally famous neighbour of Niseko.

It is snowing here 80-100 days per winter and it is the largest single resort on Hokkaido – Niseko is larger but made up of four separate, albeit easily linked, areas.

It is a slightly curious layout with the main accommodation at West Mountain to the right.

The main skiing is at Mt Isola and East Mountain and connected by a linking gondola.

Think Lech to Warth-Schroeken in Austria if you have been fortunate enough to take the connecting lift in the Arlberg ski area .

There are 18 lifts with 37 marked trails and acres of accessible tree skiing.

“There is unparalleled snow, terrain and facilities that make Rusutsu the ultimate winter destination,” said a statement from the tourist office as I did a bit of research into the resort ahead of the PlanetSKI visit.

Once on its slopes I could only agree.

There is great skiing and snowboarding, with views to match.

It is hard to exaggerate the amount of tree skiing here.

Off the scale.

And there’s bumps too, once the powder is skied out on the marked runs.

Check out that zip line.

The ares is re-known for it food with over 30 restaurants.

It prides itself on sourcing local food much of it from its own direct managed farms.

They cultivate vegetables, lamb, Rusutsu highland pork, dairy products and other food.

This mountain at the restaurant at the bottom of the Isola gondola on Mt Isola is worth the queue with its local meats and seafood.

Over in West Mountain, where the main accommodation is, there is a small but interesting ski area.

It is a decent ski area in its own right.

And it has a huge funfair at the bottom of the slopes – though it is not open in the winter months.

Now you might have thought a funfare on the slopes would by today’s random Japanese experience.

It was in Sapporo Teine.

Not in Rusutsu.

The random Japaneses experience here resides by the lobby in the main Rusutsu Hotel.

The hotel has a standard appearance from the outside.

But inside there is a merry-go-round, set in a bizarre room to the side of the check information desk.

Obviously there is a talking tree too.

Only in Japan.

And talking of accommodation there are numerous large international hotels in Rusutsu.

But if you want something more unique try a traditional log cabin in the woods.

Rusutsu, Hokkaido, Japan. Image © Rusutsu tourist office.

And with that our two weeks based in the city of Sapporo and skiing its ski areas comes to an end.

Our visit to Rusutsu has been fantastic – maybe we had saved the best until last.

Thank you Sapporo it’s been an utter blast.

We are now moving on to Furano and its neighbouring resorts of Kamui, Tomamu and the wonderfully named Mount Racey as our wonderful Japan road trip continues.

We hope to squeeze in Yubari too.

But not before we have gone to watch some traditional Hokkaido horse racing in Obihiro.

Plus a spot of bird watching in Kushiro.

Seeing one of Japan’s favourite birds, the Crane, in its natural habitat in the local marshland.

Japan just keeps on delivering on every level.

Visiting Japan

A handful of specialist UK operators offer ski holidays to Japan.

Ski Safari has perhaps the most experience of the country with tailored packages built on the company’s extensive knowledge and experience.

It offers the following six ski resorts:

Niseko – Japan’s largest and best-known ski resort, the quality and quantity of snow here is unparalleled – for powder, it doesn’t get much better than a Niseko ski holiday

Hakuba – Hakuba ski holidays are blessed with alpine-like terrain and huge variety. Hakuba is a great place to use as a base for exploring multiple resorts on one lift pass.

Rusutsa – A quirky, powder-filled paradise, Rusutsu ski holidays are great on their own or as part of a longer trip in Hokkaido.

Nozawa Onsen – Japan’s oldest ski resort, Nozawa Onsen ski holidays are as famous for onsens as they are for skiing – perfect for a ski trip with added culture.

Kiroro – Relatively under-the-radar, Kiroro ski holidays feature deep powder, quiet slopes and fantastic tree runs off-piste.

Furano -Choose a Furano ski holiday for a traditional resort in an idyllic setting and top notch piste skiing. A good value option, Furano is a thriving town in its own right.

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