Powder, Peaks & Picnics: A Week of Ski Touring around Chamonix. Part 2

27th March 2025 | Tashie Cove, Chamonix & Surrounding Areas.

Last modified on April 2nd, 2025

I am back in London, sitting on my sofa, sipping tea, legs still aching but heart full after an unforgettable week ski touring in France, Switzerland and Italy.

Six days of pushing limits, sharing laughs, navigating steep icy traverses, and enjoying more cake than I probably should have.

“Venture off the beaten track to discover breathtaking remote locations and carve fresh tracks under the guidance of expert mountain guides, before returning to our centrally located chalet,” promised the Ski Club GB brochure.

It delivered, and more.

Here’s how it all unfolded as I took The Chamonix Backcountry Exploration trip  with with guides, Jim Kerr and Simon Abrahams.

Yours Truly ski touring around Chamonix. Image © PlanetSKI.

Here’s Part One of the trip:

• Powder, Peaks & Picnics: A Week of Ski Touring around Chamonix. Part 1

And now the big one – a night in a mountain hut, glacier skiing and my first summit.

Wednesday – Into the Wild: Skinning, Kick Turns & Crevasse Rescue

I woke up feeling a cocktail of nerves and excitement – today was the big one.

We’d be heading deep into the mountains and spending the night at a remote hut.

There’s always that bit of apprehension when you know you’ll be far from the comforts of civilization, but mostly I was buzzing to get going.

With Elle & Josie off for a well-earned morning break, we had the run of the chalet kitchen.

We prepped our own porridge and boiled eggs– simple, but just the fuel we needed.

It’s one of the perks of our setup; everything was super user-friendly, and it felt nice to have free rein for a change.

Our guides, Jim and Simon, arrived at the chalet and before we could even think about leaving, we had a full kit check – harnesses, avalanche gear, crampons, skins, layers – ticked off one by one.

Van loaded, we set off on the 1 hour 45-minute drive to Leukerbad, crossing into Switzerland.

We made a quick pit stop at a bakery to pick up sandwiches for our picnic later.

The smell of fresh bread and pastries was enough to make us want to scrap the packed lunch plan and eat there on the spot.

Once in Leukerbad, we grabbed a return lift ticket for the Gemmi Pass – no full-day pass needed today.

A quick ski down a winding little track led us to the spot where layers were quickly shed; skinning always warms you up faster than you think.

The first hour was a gentle skin along a path.

The pace was calm, giving us time to chat, take in the snowy surroundings, and steeling ourselves for what we knew was coming – the looming steep section ahead.

First views of hut in the distance. Image © PlanetSKI.

As we reached the foot of the steeper face, we spotted a group of five ahead inching their way across an intimidatingly steep and icy slope.

Time for a sandwich and a moment to regroup while Jim headed up to widen the kick turns area with his shovel.

As we geared up, a kindly older Swiss guide skied past, warning Jim with a smile that this might be a bit much for “women of a certain age.”

We couldn’t help but laugh – two of us were in our 30s.

Slightly amused and slightly defiant, we pressed on.

At the bottom looking up to the steeper icy slope. Image © PlanetSKI.

The first few kick turns were manageable, and confidence grew with every successful pivot.

By the fourth, things got trickier – the snowbank above made it hard to swing the skis around cleanly.

Jim stationed himself just below, ready to help anyone in need, but we dug in and pushed on.

Then came the infamous icy traverse.

I locked my eyes on the snow ahead, determined not to look down.

Crampons biting into the slope, extendable poles adjusted – one long, one short – I edged across the face.

Every step required total focus.

It felt like it went on forever, but slowly and steadily, we all made it across and breathed a collective sigh of relief on the other side.

Simon later told us this was probably one of the steepest kick turns we’d ever have to tackle on skis – any steeper and we’d be switching to boot crampons.

With the hardest part behind us, it was a steady 45-minute skin up a gentle incline.

Eventually, the hut emerged on the horizon like a beacon.

Stripping our skins off, we arrived to find a well-organised refuge, complete with a boot room, drying racks for skins, and – to our delight – an entire wall lined with Crocs in every size imaginable.

The hut emerges. Image © PlanetSKI.

The kit room. Image © PlanetSKI.

A wall of crocs. Image © PlanetSKI.

Inside, we found our rooms, which were more spacious than I’d expected.

Bags stashed and boots swapped for hut shoes, we took a quick breather before the next adventure began.

Mine and Abbi’s room. Image © PlanetSKI.

Harnesses back on, we headed outside with the guides for some glacier safety training.

The risks of touring on a glacier were laid out clearly – it was sobering but essential stuff.

Jim demonstrated how to dig a trench and anchor skis in the snow to create a makeshift pulley system.

Simon then took over, showing us three different crevasse rescue techniques using ropes, slings, and pulleys.

When it came time for someone to volunteer as the person in the crevasse (a makeshift ditch), I put my hand up – figuring it would be pretty useful to experience what it’s like to be the one in the hole.

I dangled just below as the team practiced hauling me out, step by step.

Foggy views from the hut. Image © PlanetSKI.

Back inside, we warmed up with tea and snacks before getting stuck into knot practice essentials for glacier travel.

Practicing for crevasse rescue. Image © PlanetSKI.

Dinner was exactly what we needed after a big day – hearty bowls of soup, bolognese with salad, and a chocolate mousse for dessert.

The hut staff were incredibly welcoming and had everything running like clockwork.

Polished plates. Image © PlanetSKI.

Later on, Clive hosted a music quiz for our group, which turned out to be a brilliant laugh – a great way to unwind in the cosy hut atmosphere.

I was pretty chuffed to end up on the winning team.

With full stomachs and tired legs, we hit the hay early, ready for whatever the mountains had in store for us the next day.

Thursday – Battling the Blizzard, Topping Out on Steghorn & Powder Rewards

A 6:30am alarm meant an early start at the hut.

The dining room was already buzzing with other skiers and mountaineers getting ready for their own adventures.

We fuelled up on a simple but hearty breakfast of cereal, porridge, and toast – the essentials for what would be one of the most challenging days so far.

With bellies full, we packed up, said goodbye to the welcoming hut staff, and stepped outside to prep our gear.

The fog was thick, the wind beginning to whisper ominously, but spirits were high.

Fresh snow and slightly less foggy. Image © PlanetSKI.

Our guides gave us a quick briefing: there were three possible objectives for today, depending on how the weather developed.

After assessing conditions, they pointed us towards the Steghorn (3,147m) – a formidable peak that promised a big reward if we could summit.

I’ll admit, knowing we’d be skinning across a glacier did weigh on my mind.

The thought of crevasses lurking under the snow was hard to ignore, but I kept reminding myself of yesterday’s training and the fact that we had two exceptional guides leading us.

The first stretch of skinning was calm, but as we gained elevation, the wind began to whip, snow started falling sideways, and before long, we were trudging through what felt like a full-blown blizzard.

After around three hours of relentless walking, steep in most places, we finally found some shelter behind a huge rock and grabbed a quick snack.

The guides cheerfully told us there were “just” 45 minutes to go.

David quipped, “45 mins up for 2 minutes down – let’s go!”

His humour lifted the mood, even as fatigue started to set in.

Skinning up in a break from the blizzard. Image © PlanetSKI.

Skinning up in a break from the blizzard. Image © PlanetSKI.

Skinning up in a break from the blizzard. Image © PlanetSKI.

From there, it was a true test of grit – steep kick turns, sideways snow blasting our faces, and every step requiring more determination than the last.

I definitely hit a wall at this point, feeling every inch of altitude in my legs.

But with heads down and focus sharpened, we pressed on.

Finally, rounding a snowy corner, we spotted the summit cross – a welcome sight through the swirling wind.

Relief and exhilaration washed over us as we clipped off our skins, bracing against the howling gale.

The summit was absolutely freezing, but the accomplishment of getting to the top felt worth every struggle.

Team picture at the top. Image © PlanetSKI

The descent began in windswept snow – the first few turns were tricky with hardpack underneath – but within a few moments, we broke through into a pocket of sheltered powder.

It’s hard to put into words the feeling of skiing down that slope.

The snow was soft and perfect, and every turn felt so richly deserved after the tough climb.

There’s something about earning your turns that gives each turn an extra meaning – it was pure magic.

Skiing down. Image © PlanetSKI

Skiing down. Image © PlanetSKI

Skiing down. Image © PlanetSKI

Laying down fresh tracks, we met several groups still slogging uphill, grinning as they saw us floating past in perfect snow.

Huge smiles were exchanged all round – a lovely moment of shared mountain camaraderie.

Looking back at our tracks as another group heads up. Image © PlanetSKI

Eventually, we found ourselves near the hut again but veered off to a different route than yesterday’s steep climb.

A long traverse above the valley gave us time to reflect on the morning’s challenge before dropping back down.

The final few turns. Image © PlanetSKI

From there, we began the familiar 1-hour skin across the flat valley floor, now shrouded in thick fog.

It felt surreal retracing our steps from yesterday, seeing the same landscape but from a totally different perspective.

Along the flat back to the Gemmipass. Image © PlanetSKI

Back at the restaurant at the top of the Gemmi Pass, we treated ourselves to some well-earned rosti – crispy, golden, and the perfect end to an epic two-day tour.

Well deserved rosti. Image © PlanetSKI

With weary legs, we bundled into the van for the 1 hour 45-minute drive back to Chamonix.

I barely stayed awake for the first 10 minutes before drifting off into one of the deepest car naps of my life.

Arriving back at the chalet, we were greeted by the familiar scent of fresh carrot cake.

An early supper followed, before we pretty much collapsed into bed – tired, happy, and proud of what we’d accomplished.

Friday – Powder Day in Chamonix and a Special Final Evening

We woke up to the kind of excitement that only comes from fresh snow and blue skies peeking through the curtains.

After yesterday’s epic touring adventure, we were all feeling the tell-tale ache in our legs, but the promise of a powder day close to home was enough to get us moving.

Breakfast was another comforting spread, and over coffee we chatted about how lucky we’d been with the snow conditions all week, the cloud could have lifted at times but the snow had been great thanks to Simon and Jim’s expert navigation.

Breakfast of champions. Image © PlanetSKI

Today, the guides had planned a fun day of off-piste skiing around Chamonix – a more relaxed but still adventurous day to cap off the trip.

The drive to the lift station at Les Grands Montets was quick, reminding us again just how perfectly located Chamonix is for easy access to multiple resorts.

Once up the mountain, we were rewarded with soft powder snow and clear views of the surrounding peaks – a picture-perfect final day.

Unfortunately my legs had given in, each turn weighed heavy.

I decided to separate from the others and enjoyed some piste skiing.

The resort was almost deserted so I had wide pistes to enjoy all to myself.

After a few runs I popped my skins, sunnies and headphones on and skinned up the side of a path.

Skiers skid past me with a funny look on their face probably thinking “why doesn’t she just get the lift”.

I smugly return their smiles thinking to myself “little do you know where these skins can take you”.

Gentle path to skin up. Image © PlanetSKI

After skiing, we headed straight back to Chambre Neuf for a little dance on the tables before we had our final meal at the chalet.

We were greeted by Elle & Josie who had been busy preparing a special final evening for us.

The smell of something incredible cooking filled the air and there was an unmistakable celebratory atmosphere.

A glass of bubbly was waiting for each of us before dinner, and we toasted to an unforgettable week –  full of challenges, laughs, and great turns.

Dinner that evening was an absolute treat – a homemade feast.

Afterwards, we all gathered around for a final drink, sharing our favourite stories from the trip, grateful for the adventures we’d had and the friendships we’d developed.

We headed to bed with tired legs, full hearts, and the quiet satisfaction that comes from a week well spent in the mountains.

I was hooked on ski touring and I knew this was only the start of many decades of  adventures away from the marked runs and  and ski lifts.

Let the journey begin.

Yours Truly ski touring around Chamonix. Image © PlanetSKI.

Ski touring for the first time. Image © PlanetSKI

What You Need to Know:

See here for full details of the Ski Club holiday: The Chamonix Backcountry Exploration.

Image c/o Ski Club GB

On Snow Experience

PlanetSKI: Number 1 for digital ski news.

Your digital platform for ski news, resort information, travel, equipment rental, money saving deals and everything connected with snowsports – web site, social media & more.