PlanetSKI Slows Down in Val d’Arly

31st March 2025 | James Cove, Val d'Arly, France.

Last modified on April 8th, 2025

The French Ski area is not the most obvious place for a late-season ski trip. All the more reason to visit in our opinion and soak up ‘slow-tourism’ as the season draws to an end.

If you want to dance on tables in your ski boots at apres ski and go clubbing into the wee small hours after a day of full on and hard skiing, then head to Val d’Isere or Val Thorens.

If you want to cruise round the slopes, soaking up nature and some fabulous views while eating superb cuisine in an utterly relaxing and enchanting ski area then head to Val d’Arly.

The linked ski area sits in the Espace Diamant area between the Aravis and Beaufortain mountains, close to Mt Blanc.

It nestles between the better-known French resorts of La Clusaz and Megeve in the Savoie region.

Val d’Arly is an hour and a half from Geneva airport and Espace Diamant consists of five linked resorts.

Flumet/Sainte Nicolas La Chapelle
Notre Dame de Bellecombe
Crest-Voland/Cohennoz
Les Saises
Praz sur Arly

There are 192kms of slopes, that start at 900m and go up to 2,000m:

82 lifts
167 downhill ski runs
123kms of cross-country skiing
5 snowparks
7 boardercross runs

Val d’Arly, France. Image © PlanetSKI

Image © Val d’Arly Tourist Office.

Each are different with the more challenging skiing at Notre Dame de Bellecombe.

The 2,000m altitude of the top of the ski area is high enough for the current late-March conditions with barely a soul around.

Val d’Arly, France. Image © PlanetSKI

The area prides itself on ‘slow tourism’.

“We offer a range of activities here in Val d’Arly, and though people come primarily for the excellent piste skiing they also come for cross-country skiing, snowshoe walking and simply getting back to the nature,” said Elodie Curt-Comte from the local tourist office who showed me round Val d’Arly.

Elodie Curt-Comte, Val d’Arly, France. Image © PlanetSKI

“We are shaped by tourism and farming and have an inherent desire to remain a land of tradition where respect for nature guides us,” added Elodie.

“Here, simplicity is coupled with wisdom and every moment becomes an ode to eternal beauty.

“Reconnect with yourself , immerse yourself in nature’s beauty and meet real people who are passionate about their land.

“Here every moment is an opportunity to slow down, savour and re-charge.

“Far from the hustle and bustle of modern life, Val d’Arly offers the chance to live in harmony with nature in tune with the environment and respect for local savoir-faire”

Elodie Curt-Comte, Val d’Arly, France. Image © PlanetSKI

Val d’Arly, France. Image © PlanetSKI

“The views of the Mt Blanc are truly spectacular, and we do not have the purpose- built ski resorts that are so familiar in France, but rather attractive chalets with many made out of wood,” Elodie added.

The linked resort of Les Saisies, in Espace Diamant, is a case in point.

There are 18,000 tourist beds with not a single high-rise building or large sprawling residence.

Les Saisies, France. Image © PlanetSKI

As one is skiing around the slopes one feels part of the mountains and a strong connection to nature and the area’s history.

Val d’Arly, France. Image © PlanetSKI

“Here more than elsewhere, at the heart of living and respected mountains, untouched by excesses, slow tourism finds all its meaning,” said the manager of the Val d’Arly tourist office, Stanislas Tochitch.

“Deep-rooted in our DNA since the outset, it encourages visitors to attune themselves to the local inhabitants, who are sincerely attached to their region and to take the time to listen watch and feel.”

There was skiing here back in the 1930s.

And this is how the early pioneers went up the mountain.

Val d’Arly, France. Image © PlanetSKI

It seats 20 people.

Val d’Arly, France. Image © PlanetSKI

It ran on a Ford V8 engine.

Val d’Arly, France. Image © PlanetSKI

It was used from 1937 to 1946 when it went out of service as the first fixed lifts were installed.

This is not a purpose-built ski area but one that has evolved over time, and you can feel it as you ski round the slopes.

Val D’Arly is mainly for families and intermediate skiers, though there are some decent reds and a handful of blacks.

With fresh snow it would be a powder paradise.

Val d’Arly, France. Image © PlanetSKI

Three quarters of the people that visit come from France.

It is growing in popularity with foreign visitors, including us Brits.

Of the foreign visitors the Belgians are the largest, then the Dutch and then the British.

I am staying in Chalet Hotel du Mont Charvin in the village of Crest-Volard/Cohennoz, an authentic and genuine French mountain hamlet.

Val d’Arly, France. Image © PlanetSKI

Locals play boules in the late afternoon.

Val d’Arly, France. Image © PlanetSKI

The single general store is full of locally-produced fresh food.

Val d’Arly, France. Image © PlanetSKI

If you want ‘slow-tourism’ then this is the place to head to.

Eating and drinking is central to a stay in Val d’Arly, and if you think the French mountain cuisine is not as good as perhaps it could be then think again.

Here’s a three-course meal at Le Toi du Monde

Val d’Arly, France. Image © PlanetSKI

I’ve had dinner in the mountains with some odd characters, but at La Ferme de Victorine I met my strangest dining companions.

There is a window to the cowshed that backs off the restaurant, and they can join you for dinner should you chose a nearby table.

It also has a rather fine cheeseboards.

Cheese is a serious business in this part of the French Alps.

As is lunch in a mountain restaurant.

You can always tell a good one if the local pisteurs and ski instructors choose it as their meeting place.

And the snow at this time of year in the final week of the season?

Here’s my PlanetSKI snow report from the Plan Dessert button lift.

I also tried a spot of ski touring in the area and there will be a full report on the fast-growing mountain activity later this week.

If it sounds like a ski area that interests you then you might want to consider it for next season.

It is all about relaxing and recharging – ‘slow tourism’.

We are already planning to be back in 25/26.

I have unfinished business as I never saw the clear views of Mont Blanc, and I want to do more ski touring, cross country skiing and snowshoe walking.

Slow ski tourism.

See here for more on the area of Val d’Arly.

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