PlanetSKI’s Patagonian Adventure: Part 1

11th November 2026 | Tashie Cove & Jack Johnson

Our two reporters visited Patagonia in the autumn. They share their adventures from this fabulous corner of the globe. Read Part One, of two parts. NEW

We landed in El Calafate at 7am, stepping out into cool Patagonian air and the kind of early morning light that wakes you up whether you like it or not.

Saturday – First Light, First Icebergs & First Meal

The airport was quiet, the horizon wide and empty in that classic Patagonia way.

Even after a long flight, it was impossible not to feel a jolt of excitement: this was the start of our adventure.

Most people brace themselves for airport admin, especially when it comes to rental cars but Flexways defeated every stereotype.

One conversation, one deposit payment, one signature, one smile, and a set of keys appeared in our hands.

We walked out into the cool air wondering if car hire could always be this painless.

Town was not far, but the first priority—beyond navigation—was pastries.

We pulled up outside a small café, the windows fogged from the ovens inside, and devoured warm pastries while deciding what to tackle first.

There’s something particularly exciting about that first hour in a new country: you’re jet-lagged, disoriented, running on caffeine, and absolutely buzzing with possibility.

Our next stop was Hielo y Aventura, the outdoor adventure hub that everyone in El Calafate seems to orbit around.

Inside, we found him—the man of many recommendations—whose name, to our shame, neither of us managed to catch properly.

He flicked instantly into Patagonia-sage mode, sketching out ideas for our ice trekking trip the next day, pointing to maps with the enthusiasm of someone who truly loves this region.

He told us the best lookout points for Perito Moreno, remote locations for cold-water dips, which restaurant served the best steaks, which bar had the most character.

It felt like being handed a local’s cheat sheet.

Armed with far more knowledge than we’d expected to acquire before 10am, we hit the road for the Perito Moreno Glacier, reaching the entrance around midday.

The landscapes grew grander with every curve of the road.

Patagonia has a way of making you feel very small, very quickly; vast plains give way to jagged mountains, and somewhere in the distance, the first chalky-white shapes of floating icebergs begin to appear.

Seeing ice on that scale never gets old—it always feels slightly miraculous.

Patagonia: Driving from El Calafate to Perito Moreno Glacier – Image © PlanetSKI

Patagonia: A local’s recommendations! – Image © PlanetSKI

The park entrance fee (£76.18 for two people for two days) felt like a bargain once we stepped onto the boardwalks.

Perito Moreno is not a glacier you look at; it’s one you witness.

Walls of blue ice rose in cathedral-like formations, cracking and groaning like something alive.

Every now and again we hear huge crashes as slabs fell into the surrounding water.

We wandered slowly, pausing at every platform, staring until our eyes watered a bit from the cold wind and the sheer brightness of it all.

The helpful tourist signs guided us around, offering snippets of information on the glacier.

Patagonia: First sighting of the Perito Moreno Glacier – Image © PlanetSKI

Patagonia: Breathtaking views of the Perito Moreno Glacier – Image © PlanetSKI

To make the magic of Patagonia even more real, we saw a huge bird soaring close to our heads, a local guide confirmed in was a Condor, with a 3m wingspan.

Patagonia: Condor soaring low – Image © PlanetSKI

Back in the carpark we bumped into some bikers who had set off from Calgary in March and ridden all the way down to Ushuaia.

Now they were on their way back home.

We heard their crazy stories and, of course, stopped for a quick photo.

Patagonia: Motobiking heros! – Image © PlanetSKI

I, an avid cold-water swimmer, became fixated on the idea of swimming amongst the icebergs—a fantasy that lasted until we reached a stern sign explicitly forbidding exactly that.

Patagonia – Heartbreaking sign – “No Swimming”. Image © PlanetSKI

On the drive back to El Calafate we salvaged the dream by stopping at Lago Argentino, we were unsure on whether we were allowed to swim but there was no signs forbidding it, so off I went.

The water wasn’t too cold—sharp, yes, but manageable.

Patagonia – Inviting waters. Image © PlanetSKI

Patagonia: A quick swim in Lago Argentino, where the water wasn’t too cold, sharp, yes, but manageable – Image © PlanetSKI

By late afternoon we rolled back into town and checked into our hotel, Del Glacier Libertador, happily placed just a short wander from everything.

We settled at a small bar as the sun dipped, watching all the adventurers relaxing after a busy day, we were getting very excited about our ice-trek tomorrow.

Dinner was at Isabel, one of Helio’s recommendations, and it floored us.

Jack declared it his best meal in Patagonia so far, which—given his dedication to steak and empanadas—felt like high praise.

The food was unpretentious but exquisite, the sort of place where every table looks like they’re quietly having the best night of their holiday.

By the time we returned to the hotel, sleep swept over us without resistance.

Patagonia was already working its magic, and tomorrow, the ice would beckon us even closer.

Patagonia: Delicious food at Annabels – Image © PlanetSKI

Sunday – Crampons On, Cracking Ice & A Windy Swim

We were up early for a quick breakfast at the hotel, knowing we needed to be at the port by 9:45am for our ice-trekking trip.

With everything laid out the night before, we left around 8am, the town still sleepy and quiet as we drove back towards the glacier.

The boat journey itself was an experience.

We cruised through the lake, weaving past floating chunks of ice, with the glacier slowly growing larger and more imposing ahead of us.

We thought yesterday’s views couldn’t get much better but from a boat, the glacier looked even more ginormous and you could feel the size of the floating icebergs.

Patagonia: Glacier views from the boat. Image © PlanetSKI

Patagonia: Drop off spot! Image © PlanetSKI

Once ashore, we were given a briefing by the guides and split into groups based on language.

Gloves were stressed as essential, and for good reason — it was cold, even standing still.

Patagonia: Safety briefing with our guide. Image © PlanetSKI

From there, we set off on foot towards the glacier.

The 45-minute walk to the base was very interesting, with the guide stopping regularly to explain what we were seeing.

We learned why glacier ice appears blue, how it forms over time, and how the landscape continues to shift.

It felt more like a moving classroom than a simple walk, and the time passed quickly.

Patagonia: Walking towards the glacier. Image © PlanetSKI

Patagonia: Walking towards the glacier. Image © PlanetSKI

Patagonia: Walking towards the glacier. Image © PlanetSKI

Patagonia: Our two adventurers, Tashie and Jack. Image © PlanetSKI

At the base, we were fitted with crampons and helmets, double-checking straps and laces before stepping onto the ice.

There were no ropes, which initially felt surprising from someone who has spent lots of time on glaciers in the alps, but once we started moving it felt secure and well-managed.

Patagonia: Crampon fitting – Image © PlanetSKI

Walking on the glacier was incredible.

The ice was textured and uneven, criss-crossed with cracks and small meltwater pools, all set against an enormous backdrop of white and blue.

We spent around an hour on the ice, stopping often as the guides explained how and why the glacier cracks, shifts, and constantly reforms.

Every now and again there was a distant booming sound as ice calved somewhere further along — a reminder that this place is very much alive.

Patagonia: First steps on the glacier. Image © PlanetSKI

Eventually, we made our way back down off the glacier and returned to solid ground.

The walk back to the base offered more beautiful views of the glacier from a slightly different angle, and by then we were more than ready for lunch.

We perched on the rocks overlooking the ice for a picnic lunch, easily one of the best lunch spots we’ve ever had.

Sitting there, eating and watching the glacier, it felt hard to believe this was a “day trip”.

On the drive back to El Calafate, we couldn’t resist one more stop — another swim in the lake.

This time it was cold and windy, properly cold, but still completely worth it.

A quick dip, a fast change, and we were back in the car laughing and buzzing.

Back in town, we grabbed a quick supper, conscious that the day wasn’t quite over yet.

When travelling we don’t like to return to the same place twice, hoping to try out as many new things as possible, but we couldn’t resist returning to Isabels.

Once again, it did not disappoint.

We loaded the car and began the drive to El Chaltén, excited for the next chapter of the trip.

About 30 minutes in, we noticed something wasn’t right.

The rear bumper had come loose, despite our best efforts to push it back into place, it wouldn’t budge.

We became aware of the vastness of our surroundings, realising we’d been stopped for about 15-minutes and hadn’t seen another car.

Not wanting it to detach entirely somewhere on the open road, we turned around and headed back to the airport to speak to the rental company.

Thankfully, the Flexways team was as helpful as before.

With a bit of effort and some creative problem-solving, the Flexways team pushed it back into place and we were soon on our way again.

The drive that followed made up for the delay.

The scenery opened up into vast, empty plains and dramatic canyons, the kind of landscape that makes you feel very small.

As the light faded, we could just make out Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy in the distance, their outlines unmistakable even from far away.

Excitement bubbled.

We arrived in El Chaltén after dark, checked in, and collapsed into bed.

It had been a full day — ice underfoot, cold water swims, mechanical hiccups — and the sense that the mountain adventures we’d already begun were only going to get bigger from here.

Tashie and Jack were travelling independently to Patagonia.

PlanetSKI: Number 1 for digital ski news

Your digital platform for ski news, resort information, travel, equipment rental, sport, money saving deals and everything connected with snowsports – web site, social media & more.

Patagonian Adventure

New for the 2026/27 Ski Season

PlanetSKI: Number 1 for digital ski news

Your digital platform for ski news, resort information, travel, equipment rental, sport, money saving deals and everything connected with snowsports – web site, social media & more..