Onwards from Furano & Deeper into Hokkaido

28th February 2025

Last modified on May 11th, 2025

The PlanetSKI month-long trip in Japan is drawing to an end, but not before we hit resorts in the Hokkaido Powder Belt. First up its was Furano, Tomamu & Kamui and now it’s Mount Racey .UPDATED

Furano is the major resort in central Hokkaido and perhaps the best place to use as a base.

We have posted about it below and are now updating as we visit some nearby resorts.

Update:

And so to Mount Racey that lies between the resort of Furano and the city of Sapporo.

It’s our final ski resort on Hokkaido before we fly back to Tokyo and then head towards home.

We’re taking a three night stop-over in Turkey on our return to Europe, but more of that later.

Here’s Mount Racey.

Mount Racey, Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

It is another Japanese resort on the Indy Pass and at Mount Racey, when you show your pass, they issue you with a paper voucher rather than a lift pass.

Old school.

INDY Pass offers more resorts for next winter

Mount Racey, Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

There are no lift gates here that you need to pass through to get on a lift, and people simply put the pass in their pocket or some attach it to their arm.

Mount Racey, Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

I assume people are occasionally checked by the authorities, but we were never asked for our pass.

The resort also rents out clothing for those that don’t have it.

Old school again.

Mount Racey, Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Once again there was a monster hotel at the base of the resort, but it went sideways not upwards as at Tomamu (see below).

It is very much an on piste resort, but there is some limited off piste in the tree areas.

Mount Racey, Japan. Image c/o PlanetSKI.

Here is my snow report from the day that contains some further details about the resort.

And with that the PlanetSKI 5-week ski trip in Japan came to an end.

Mount Racey, Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Mount Racey was a suitably random resort to call it a day and move on.

After a late lunch.

Mount Racey, Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

It was time to head to Tokyo for an overnight stay and to reflect on PlanetSKI’s Japanese ski trip over a round of golf at the base of Mt Fuji.

If you what to check my musings on the overall experience in Japan then look out for that final post.

Mt Fuji, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

On the way back to Europe we’re stopping off in Istanbul in Turkey for a few days where we may, or may not, get some skiing in.

We were there last year and loved it as the resort of Katalkaya is three hour or so drive away:

PlanetSKI is Skiing & Sightseeing in Turkey

Skiing in Turkey. Image © PlanetSKI

Though sadly the resort of Kartalkaya has seen tragedy this winter.

Death toll in Turkish ski resort fire rises to 79

Then we head back to the Alps to enjoy plenty of spring skiing and the end of the European ski season.

March and April await.

PlanetSKI will be in the mountains until early May.

Thank you Japan, it’s been an utter blast.

We’ll see you next winter….

PlanetSKI in Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Update:

Next stop Kamui

After the rather weird experience of Tomamu (see below) my expectations of another local ski area were raised.

I love visiting ski resorts I have never been to before, and even better if I have never even heard of them.

I approach with an open mind, and was delighted when Kumai delivered the genuine Japanese ski experience by the bucket load.

Kamui, Japan. Image c/o PlanetSKI.

Jt was another on the INDY Pass and it was simple to collect a lift pass.

See here for more about the Indy Pass.

INDY Pass offers more resorts for next winter

There is no accommodation in Kamui and most of the people here are keen skiers and snowboarders from the nearby city of Asahikawa, that is about half an hour or so from the resort.

The car park was packed.

Kamui, Japan. Image c/o PlanetSKI.

There was no powder snow to be had, but there were some fabulous wide pistes and after all the powder we have had it was fun just to hammer round the pistes European-style.

Kamui, Japan. Image c/o PlanetSKI.

It has six lifts with 25 trails – the steepest run has a gradient of 35%.

Many of the runs were blacks and reds, with a few green runs meandering through the trees.

It is the largest resort in central Hokkaido and it has recently expanded its side country area by clearing excess vegetation.

And what views over central Hokkaido.

Kamui, Japan. Image c/o PlanetSKI.

I neither saw nor heard a single European, Australian or American.

No-one spoke English, but smilng and waving hands around were enough tools to communicate with.

Theses were simply hundreds of local Japanese skiers out indulging in their passion.

After the rather touristy ski experience in Tomamu, Kamui was a revelation.

Kamui, Japan. Image c/o PlanetSKI.

And on the journey back we passed by another ski area, but sadly there was no time to pop in.

Hokkaido, Japan. Image c/o PlanetSKI.

Japan has around 450 ski resorts.

Last year, the Niseko on the northenr island of Hokkaido saw approximately 230,000 foreign overnight guests according to Kutchan tourism reports.

In the the Hakuba Valley in Nagano on the main island of Homchu there were roughly 570,000 international skiers and snowboarders during the 2023–2024 season, as reported by Hakuba Valley Tourism.

And the number in Kamui?

No figures are available but probably just a few hundred curious people like me.

The next and final stop on our 5 week ski safari in Japan is the wonderfully-named Mount Racey.

Update:

And so to Tomamu.

It is a drive of about an hour and 15 minutes from Furano.

It could have been several light years.

What an utterly extraordinary place.

Tokyo on snow.

Tomamu, Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Lord knows how many beds there are in the tower blocks, and there is a huge Club Med too.

Tomamu, Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

It is a bizarre ski resort, with not many people even skiing.

Tomamu, Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Large numbers of people were not here for the skiing – it is on Asian tourist trail for Instagram posters and people seeking mountain views.

Tomamu, Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

The skiing at Tomamu was somewhat limited – many of the runs were green paths through the trees.

Tomamu, Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

It is primarily a resort for beginners, intermediates and families – unless of course powder snow falls, when it would be superb with few people venturing into the trees and away from the marked runs.

It has six lifts and offers 29 trails, with some tree skiing areas available.

Tomamu, Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

It is served by three separate airports with six direct bus routes from the main Chitose international airport.

There are 11 trains per day from Sapporo.

Then on our visit the winds picked up after lunch and most of the lifts closed – there seemed only one option.

We left and headed back to Furano to make a few afternoon turns in our base resort in central Hokkaido.

Furano, Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

We’re also planning to hit the resorts of Kumai and Mount Racey over the next couple of days.

Here is our earlier report from Furano:

The resort is the jewel in the crown of this part of the island of Hokkaido and has some of the largest amounts of terrain.

The areas is large by Japanese standards and, though small by European ones, there is plenty of skiing to be had and a decent variety of terrain.

Furano, Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Skiing and snowboarding is on offer from the end of November to the beginning of May.

My first snow report that was posted on arrival is as good a place to start this resort blog post on Furano as any.

And here is some of the snow falling:

And some of the views unfolding:

There are 11 lifts and 28 trails.

Then of course huge amounts of tree skiing and some available back country riding.

Furano, Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

40% of the terrain is for beginners, 40% for intermediates and 20% for advanced.

“Surrounded by the Daisetsuzan National Park in central Hokkaido, Furano has lots for intermediates, with long groomers and gentler slopes lower down,” said Andy Knights from the specialist UK operator, Ski Safari, that offers holidays to Japan.

“After dark, the night skiing gives magical views of Furano.

“With backcountry restrictions relaxed in recent years, you can access some fantastic tree runs and untracked powder – the snow is often lighter and drier than in west Hokkaido.”

Furano, Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

The actual town of Furano is a three-minute shuttle from the slopes and is full of Japanese character.

It is a real town in its own right and worth exploring.

Furano, Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

There is accommodation to suit all tastes with large hotels at the base of the two ski areas.

Shin Furano Prince Hotel in the Furano Zone is a firm favourite with international visitors from across the globe with its 407 rooms.

Furano, Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

In the Kitanomine Zone is the upmarket Nozo, and there are plenty of other options.

There are restaurants to suit all tastes and budgets too at the base of the Kitanomine ski area.

This was one of our favourites, the Forum Furano:

Plus there is some street food available:

With some under shelter.

And up on the slopes head straight for The Downhill for your lunch on the mountain.

Furano is a very Japanese affair and we saw/heard more Japanese and Asians here than Australians, Americans and Europeans.

It is a more authentic ‘Japanese experience’ than the resorts of Niseko and Rusutsu, that we visited earlier as we were based in Sapporo for a couple of weeks.

PlanetSKI rounds up two week ski safari around Sapporo

Regular readers will know we came to this part of Hokkaido via a spot of horse racing and bird watching.

PlanetSKI spends a day at the races

As you do.

Just before we left the city of Sapporo I met up with one of my great friends in the UK ski world – Warren Smith, from the Warren Smith Ski Academy.

Warren in James in Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

“Furano is probably my favourite of the all the ski areas in Hokkaido as the powder can be off the scale and it is a genuine resort with an authentic Japanese culture,” he said.

“You’ll absolutely love it there, James.”

And Warren was right – I do.

Here is Warren in the powder in Furano.

Warren Smith in Furano, Japan. Image c/o Melody Sky.

He was even take to a shrine in the trees by the local piste patrol, that is off limits to the general public.

Warren Smith in Furano, Japan. Image c/o Melody Sky.

Next winter the Warren Smith Ski Academy will be offering a trip to Japan and we’ll be providing further details when they are published.

Now despite all the snow currently falling in the Hokkaido Powder Belt, and what we have experienced over the past month or so in Japan it needs to be pointed out that there is no guarantee of deep powder snow.

And certainly not all the time.

In fact the temperature has shot up since we arrived in Furano three days ago and posted our first snow report.

It was+8c at the bottom of Furano on Friday afternoon with slushy conditions.

First thing on Saturday it was rather icy.

We have had some great powder snow in Furano and elsewhere in Japan, and we are not complaining in the slightest, but we have also come across people on shorter visits who were disappointed when the snow was lean.

In short it snows often here, but not all the time.

And on that note it’s time for an apres ski beer in the White Room as we prepare to spread our wings in the Hokkaido Powder Belt and head to Tomamu, Kumai and then Mount Racey.

UPDATE:

We have just received this message from another good friend of ours in the UK ski industry, Hugh Monney who is Director of the British Alpine Ski School, BASS.

“Hi James,

If you get the chance ski at Asahi Dake national park, then Asahi is the biggest mountain in Hokkaido.

The ropeway gives access to great skiing – off piste only.

It’s a Geo thermally active volcano, so watch out for sinkholes.

When I was there with a group,, in 2019, I use a guide from Hokkaido Powder Guides”.

Sadly, we don’t have the time on this trip but it has been noted for our return visit.

More to follow…

Visiting Japan

A handful of specialist UK operators offer ski holidays to Japan.

Ski Safari has perhaps the most experience of the country with tailored packages built on the company’s extensive knowledge and experience.

It offers the following six ski resorts:

Niseko – Japan’s largest and best-known ski resort, the quality and quantity of snow here is unparalleled – for powder, it doesn’t get much better than a Niseko ski holiday

Hakuba – Hakuba ski holidays are blessed with alpine-like terrain and huge variety. Hakuba is a great place to use as a base for exploring multiple resorts on one lift pass.

Rusutsu – A quirky, powder-filled paradise, Rusutsu ski holidays are great on their own or as part of a longer trip in Hokkaido.

Nozawa Onsen – Japan’s oldest ski resort, Nozawa Onsen ski holidays are as famous for onsens as they are for skiing – perfect for a ski trip with added culture.

Kiroro – Relatively under-the-radar, Kiroro ski holidays feature deep powder, quiet slopes and fantastic tree runs off-piste.

Furano -Choose a Furano ski holiday for a traditional resort in an idyllic setting and top notch piste skiing. A good value option, Furano is a thriving town in its own right.

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