Powder, Peaks & Picnics: A Week of Ski Touring around Chamonix

4th April 2025 | Tashie Cove, Chamonix and beyond.

Last modified on April 10th, 2025

I am back in London, sitting on my sofa, sipping tea, legs still aching but heart full after an unforgettable week ski touring in France, Switzerland and Italy.

Six days of pushing limits, sharing laughs, navigating steep icy traverses, and enjoying more cake than I probably should have.

“Venture off the beaten track to discover breathtaking remote locations and carve fresh tracks under the guidance of expert mountain guides, before returning to our centrally located chalet,” promised the Ski Club GB brochure.

It delivered, and more.

Here’s how it all unfolded as I took The Chamonix Backcountry Exploration trip  with with guides, Jim Kerr and Simon Abrahams.

Yours Truly ski touring around Chamonix. Image © PlanetSKI.

As someone who loves skiing but is relatively new to touring, I approached this trip with a mix of excitement and nerves.

Leaving behind the pistes for untouched backcountry felt like stepping into a new world – and Chamonix, with its towering peaks and storied alpine history, was the perfect place to begin.

We were staying at a warm and welcoming chalet run by Elle and Josie, who quickly became legendary for their daily homemade cakes and excellent suppers.

In our touring group were Clive, the dependable Ski Club rep, and fellow skiers Abbi, George, and David.

We were guided by the brilliant Simon and Jim, who not only kept us safe but made sure we had fun too.

Dave, Abbi’s partner, wasn’t touring with us but was always ready with stories and laughter when we returned in the evenings.

Arrival at Chalet Cachet. Image © PlanetSKI.

My lovely room at Chalet Cachet. Image © PlanetSKI.

Dining room and relaxing area. Chalet Cachet. Image © PlanetSKI.

Saturday – Arrival & Briefing

I arrived in Chamonix in the early evening, with the others waiting for me at the chalet.

Simon greeted us with a comprehensive briefing of the week ahead.

He covered everything – from itinerary and weather to avalanche safety and what to pack in our rucksacks.

The Ski Club had transceivers for those who needed them.

We kicked things off with a hearty three-course meal: warming soup, beef bourguignon, and a homemade tiramisu.

The bar was set high.

We had some more wine to aid the introductions and then slipped off to bed, excited and nervous for what the week had in store.

SUNDAY:

Sunday – Le Tour & First Lessons

A full English breakfast prepared us for our first day at Le Tour.

The Ski Club had rented a van for the trip, sparing us the hassle of the local buses.

We started with transceiver checks led by Jim, followed by a few relaxed warm-up runs to ease us in.

Simon and Jim soon guided us to a hidden powder stash for a 15 minute stretch of glorious fresh snow.

The snow was brilliant because few people came here, the only way back was skinning.

And so the skins came out for the first time – Simon and Jim reminded us how to attach them properly, how to manage our layers to avoid overheating, and the crucial tip of not keeping our skis vertically standing in the snow to prevent the glue from melting.

We started our short, enjoyable 45-minute skin uphill – a refresher to touring I could definitely handle.

We quickly found our rhythm and I found myself imagining my Bernese Mountain Dog happily bounding alongside us, thinking how much she’d love this trip.

First skin of the trip – gentle. Image © PlanetSKI.

First skin of the trip – gentle. Image © PlanetSKI.

Afterwards, we practised avalanche rescue drills: using probes, shovels, and transceivers to locate and dig out a buried device.

Simon demonstrated in detail exactly how to find Jim’s hidden transceiver, which included getting low to the mountain when you’re close and scanning the floor.

When his transceiver was about 0.3 metres away, he showed us how to use the probe going in circles around the point to find the “body”.

We all had a little go probing each other to see what’s it feels like to probe a person/rucksack rather than a rock/grass.

Simon and Jim then showed us the newest techniques for shovelling- going slightly downhill to the body and digging into the mountain to reach them.

The logic being that once you get to them you aren’t shovelling into their body, but can roll them out and get to their airways quickly.

We each took it in turns to find the hidden transceiver.

Not only was this great training but it was reassuring to know the people I would be spending the week with had some practice.

Simon and Jim taking us through all our avalanche gear. Image © PlanetSKI.

Back at the chalet, we relaxed with tea and homemade cake, followed by a soak in the hot tub before another excellent supper.

Spirits were high, even if muscles were starting to feel the first hints of fatigue.

Relaxing our muscles in the hot tub after Day 1. Image © PlanetSKI.

MONDAY:

Monday – Contamines: Blisters, Mont Blanc Views & a Slushy Surprise

We woke to another feast of a breakfast – eggs, fresh bread, and enough coffee to kick-start even the most tired legs.

Spirits were high as we packed up for our first big day outside of Chamonix, heading for the quieter area of Les Contamines.

En route, we swung by a local sandwich shop to grab picnic supplies – the kind of thick, crusty baguettes that only France seems to get just right.

We also scooped up our guides, Simon and Jim, who were on equally good form.

Jim kindly lent me a pair of crampons to try for later in the week, though the excitement faded slightly when we realised they didn’t fit my bindings.

The crampon saga had officially begun…

The Skin Begins

After one warm-up run to get our legs going and our avalanche transceivers checked, we were soon standing at the top of the off-piste area staring at the traverse ahead.

The vast mountains stretched before us, broken only by a faint track leading around the shoulder of the mountain.

The blue sky above us made for the most beautiful of days.

We started the long traverse and then hopped out of our skis to sort the skins, apply a lot of suncream, and take some layers off.

Traverse into our tour. Image © PlanetSKI.

Off came the skis, on went the skins. Image © PlanetSKI.

We began what would be a steady 2.5-hour skin.

Most of the route followed a gentle gradient, perfect for settling into a rhythm and getting a proper feel for the uphill grind.

Jim’s sharp eye caught me fidgeting in my boots, and sure enough, I was brewing blisters.

He stopped me right away, knelt down on the slope, and expertly patched them up.

“Always deal with them early,” he reminded me, reinforcing the golden rule of touring comfort.

Grateful and re-taped, I carried on with fresh determination.

Blue skies and gentle touring. Image © PlanetSKI.

Following Simon into the mountains. Image © PlanetSKI.

Onwards and upwards. Image © PlanetSKI.

As the skin wore on, the incline steepened slightly, and Simon led us through a few trickier sections, coaching us on efficient kick turns.

We tackled a fun little challenge: skiing slightly downhill with skins still on.

Wobbly doesn’t quite cover it.

With heels unlocked and skins gripping underfoot, leaning forward was a no-go – I felt like Bambi on ice but managed to stay upright, laughing all the way.

A Picnic With a View

We reached the top with brilliant views of Mont Blanc.

Off came the skins and out came the sandwiches and thermoses as we perched on our rucksacks, gazing out over a jaw-dropping panorama.

Mont Blanc itself stood proudly on the horizon, surrounded by jagged peaks cloaked in swirling cloud.

The group sat quietly for a moment, soaking up the scale and drama of it all.

Lunch with a view. Image © PlanetSKI.

Lunch with a view. Image © PlanetSKI.

After lunch, we jumped back into our skis, excited to begin the descent.

Although we stopped in our tracks when we realised our skis were very sticky and felt like our skins were still on.

Jim noticed our skis had picked up a thick layer of sticky snow.

He handed us scrapers – another touring essential – and we took turns shaving off the clumps before clipping back in.

The Descent – From Powder to Slush

The descent began with windblown and slightly crusty snow, making for a few cautious, wobbly turns at first.

But as we dropped lower, we found the sweet spot – a stretch of soft, forgiving powder where every turn felt fluid and satisfying.

About halfway down, we skied past a colossal dam, an unexpected man-made feature amidst the wilderness.

Below it, the snow began to change.

Crisp powder gave way to heavy slush as we descended further.

We found a short pitch through some trees offering a few final lovely turns before – slap – back into sticky spring snow.

Eventually, the snow thinned out entirely.

Off came the skis, and we hiked across a grassy patch, boots crunching on bare ground, to reach a connecting piste.

A few chairlifts later and we were cruising back towards Les Contamines.

Skis back on after a walk across a field. Image © PlanetSKI.

A quick drink at the base was just what we needed to toast a challenging, but rewarding day.

Then it was a 40-minute drive back to Chamonix, feeling slightly tired but buzzing.

There was still one final mission to complete: sorting my crampons.

Trying out almost all of the ski shops in town, I couldn’t find any shops that had any crampons that fitted my bindings.

Jim had told me I didn’t need them for tomorrow, but I would for the rest of the week.

After wandering around endless shops and my frustrations building, I decided to call it a night on the crampons search.

At the chalet, Elle and Josie had outdone themselves again – a fresh cake awaited on the table, still slightly warm.

After a hot shower and a soak in the hot tub, we felt ready to tackle dinner duty ourselves, as it was Elle & Josie’s well-earned evening off.

They’d left us a huge pot of homemade chilli con carne with all the trimmings – sour cream, nachos, rice, and a guacamole so fresh and zesty it disappeared almost instantly.

And just when we thought we couldn’t eat another bite, we spotted the cheese board – a generous spread of local alpine cheeses that topped off the meal perfectly.

TUESDAY:

Tuesday – Courmayeur Powder, Tree Skiing & Après Vibes

We woke to another hearty chalet breakfast – pastries, eggs, the works – as Clive gathered us round and shared the plan for the day ahead.

Courmayeur was on the cards, excitement buzzed around the table.

It’s one of the joys of staying in Chamonix – in less than an hour you can be over the border and skiing in Italy.

Sure enough, we loaded up the van and collected our guides en route, chatting away as we cruised through the Mont Blanc tunnel.

Emerging onto the Italian side, we were greeted by trees heavy with fresh snow and that unmistakable buzz of new powder.

A quick drive to the bottom of the lift and we were soon making our way up.

Despite a few clouds hanging around, the sight of all that untouched snow had us itching for those first turns.

First sight of fresh snow in Courmayeur. Image © PlanetSKI.

First sight of fresh snow in Courmayeur. Image © PlanetSKI.

Tree Skiing & Japow Flashbacks

The morning was a flurry of off-piste exploration.

Our guides led us through quiet gullies and beautifully spaced trees, bouncing through powder that had me reminiscing about my recent PlanetSKI trip to Japan this season and those unbeatable ‘JaPow’ days.

Yours truly and the PlanetSKI team in Japan last month. Image © PlanetSKI.

One of the beauties of ski touring and heading uphill for hours on end is to free your mind and see what pops in.

I am a relative novice, but I love it.

• Ski touring for the first time

Ski touring for the first time. Image © PlanetSKI

In the present the snow was soft, fresh, and forgiving – perfect for ducking in and out of the trees.

Every now and then, we’d catch glimpses of Courmayeur’s jagged peaks through breaks in the cloud.

Heading into the trees. Image © PlanetSKI.

Late morning merged into lunchtime, and we found ourselves tucked into a rustic mountain restaurant.

A plate of handmade ravioli, drizzled in sage butter, and a glass of something local hit the spot perfectly.

There’s just something about skiing in Italy – the food always delivers.

The post-lunch runs saw us back into the powder, linking top-to-bottom descents with huge grins all round.

But no day is complete without a bit of drama – second-to-last run, one of our group found a rock lurking beneath the snowpack, tearing a sizable hole in the base of his rental ski.

Lucky it happened near the end of the day, less lucky when he was hit with a €400 bill to replace it.

With legs well and truly cooked, we wrapped up and made the short hop back through the tunnel to Chamonix.

Back in town, while the others peeled off, I dashed to the ski hire shop on a mission – crampons were now top priority.

Tomorrow’s plan involved glacier travel, and the guides had already briefed us in the van on what we’d need: harnesses, crampons, sleeping bag sheets, avalanche kit, snacks, and the usual hut essentials.

After visiting a string of shops and slowly feeling the pressure mount, Snell Sports came to the rescue – the last pair of crampons in stock that would fit my bindings.

Result.

With kit finally sorted, I joined the crew at Chambre Neuf.

The après scene was in full swing – live band blasting out classics, people dancing on tables, and jugs of beer being passed around like confetti.

Courmayeur to Chamonix and straight into party mode – classic Alps.

We wandered back to the chalet where Elle and Josie had whipped up another cracking supper.

Bellies full, it was time to pack for the next day’s adventure.

Sleeping bag sheets, head torches, crampons (phew), harness, snacks – check, check, check.

The guides’ warnings to “pack light but smart” echoed in my mind as I tried to cram everything into my rucksack.

As I crawled into bed, kit packed and ready, the nerves kicked in.

Tomorrow we’d be heading out into the high mountains, staying overnight in a remote hut.

I couldn’t resist a late-night Google of the refuge, Lämmerenhütte – perched up amongst glaciers and peaks, it looked spectacular.

A mix of nerves and excitement made sleep feel like a long way off.

Wednesday – Into the Wild: Skinning, Kick Turns & Crevasse Rescue

I woke up feeling a cocktail of nerves and excitement – today was the big one.

We’d be heading deep into the mountains and spending the night at a remote hut.

There’s always that bit of apprehension when you know you’ll be far from the comforts of civilization, but mostly I was buzzing to get going.

With Elle & Josie off for a well-earned morning break, we had the run of the chalet kitchen.

We prepped our own porridge and boiled eggs– simple, but just the fuel we needed.

It’s one of the perks of our setup; everything was super user-friendly, and it felt nice to have free rein for a change.

Our guides, Jim and Simon, arrived at the chalet and before we could even think about leaving, we had a full kit check – harnesses, avalanche gear, crampons, skins, layers – ticked off one by one.

Van loaded, we set off on the 1 hour 45-minute drive to Leukerbad, crossing into Switzerland.

We made a quick pit stop at a bakery to pick up sandwiches for our picnic later.

The smell of fresh bread and pastries was enough to make us want to scrap the packed lunch plan and eat there on the spot.

Once in Leukerbad, we grabbed a return lift ticket for the Gemmi Pass – no full-day pass needed today.

A quick ski down a winding little track led us to the spot where layers were quickly shed; skinning always warms you up faster than you think.

The first hour was a gentle skin along a path.

The pace was calm, giving us time to chat, take in the snowy surroundings, and steeling ourselves for what we knew was coming – the looming steep section ahead.

First views of hut in the distance. Image © PlanetSKI.

As we reached the foot of the steeper face, we spotted a group of five ahead inching their way across an intimidatingly steep and icy slope.

Time for a sandwich and a moment to regroup while Jim headed up to widen the kick turns area with his shovel.

As we geared up, a kindly older Swiss guide skied past, warning Jim with a smile that this might be a bit much for “women of a certain age.”

We couldn’t help but laugh – two of us were in our 30s.

Slightly amused and slightly defiant, we pressed on.

At the bottom looking up to the steeper icy slope. Image © PlanetSKI.

The first few kick turns were manageable, and confidence grew with every successful pivot.

By the fourth, things got trickier – the snowbank above made it hard to swing the skis around cleanly.

Jim stationed himself just below, ready to help anyone in need, but we dug in and pushed on.

Then came the infamous icy traverse.

I locked my eyes on the snow ahead, determined not to look down.

Crampons biting into the slope, extendable poles adjusted – one long, one short – I edged across the face.

Every step required total focus.

It felt like it went on forever, but slowly and steadily, we all made it across and breathed a collective sigh of relief on the other side.

Simon later told us this was probably one of the steepest kick turns we’d ever have to tackle on skis – any steeper and we’d be switching to boot crampons.

With the hardest part behind us, it was a steady 45-minute skin up a gentle incline.

Eventually, the hut emerged on the horizon like a beacon.

Stripping our skins off, we arrived to find a well-organised refuge, complete with a boot room, drying racks for skins, and – to our delight – an entire wall lined with Crocs in every size imaginable.

The hut emerges. Image © PlanetSKI.

The kit room. Image © PlanetSKI.

A wall of crocs. Image © PlanetSKI.

Inside, we found our rooms, which were more spacious than I’d expected.

Bags stashed and boots swapped for hut shoes, we took a quick breather before the next adventure began.

Mine and Abbi’s room. Image © PlanetSKI.

Harnesses back on, we headed outside with the guides for some glacier safety training.

The risks of touring on a glacier were laid out clearly – it was sobering but essential stuff.

Jim demonstrated how to dig a trench and anchor skis in the snow to create a makeshift pulley system.

Simon then took over, showing us three different crevasse rescue techniques using ropes, slings, and pulleys.

When it came time for someone to volunteer as the person in the crevasse (a makeshift ditch), I put my hand up – figuring it would be pretty useful to experience what it’s like to be the one in the hole.

I dangled just below as the team practiced hauling me out, step by step.

Foggy views from the hut. Image © PlanetSKI.

Back inside, we warmed up with tea and snacks before getting stuck into knot practice essentials for glacier travel.

Practicing for crevasse rescue. Image © PlanetSKI.

Dinner was exactly what we needed after a big day – hearty bowls of soup, bolognese with salad, and a chocolate mousse for dessert.

The hut staff were incredibly welcoming and had everything running like clockwork.

Polished plates. Image © PlanetSKI.

Later on, Clive hosted a music quiz for our group, which turned out to be a brilliant laugh – a great way to unwind in the cosy hut atmosphere.

I was pretty chuffed to end up on the winning team.

With full stomachs and tired legs, we hit the hay early, ready for whatever the mountains had in store for us the next day.

Thursday – Battling the Blizzard, Topping Out on Steghorn & Powder Rewards

A 6:30am alarm meant an early start at the hut.

The dining room was already buzzing with other skiers and mountaineers getting ready for their own adventures.

We fuelled up on a simple but hearty breakfast of cereal, porridge, and toast – the essentials for what would be one of the most challenging days so far.

With bellies full, we packed up, said goodbye to the welcoming hut staff, and stepped outside to prep our gear.

The fog was thick, the wind beginning to whisper ominously, but spirits were high.

Fresh snow and slightly less foggy. Image © PlanetSKI.

Our guides gave us a quick briefing: there were three possible objectives for today, depending on how the weather developed.

After assessing conditions, they pointed us towards the Steghorn (3,147m) – a formidable peak that promised a big reward if we could summit.

I’ll admit, knowing we’d be skinning across a glacier did weigh on my mind.

The thought of crevasses lurking under the snow was hard to ignore, but I kept reminding myself of yesterday’s training and the fact that we had two exceptional guides leading us.

The first stretch of skinning was calm, but as we gained elevation, the wind began to whip, snow started falling sideways, and before long, we were trudging through what felt like a full-blown blizzard.

After around three hours of relentless walking, steep in most places, we finally found some shelter behind a huge rock and grabbed a quick snack.

The guides cheerfully told us there were “just” 45 minutes to go.

David quipped, “45 mins up for 2 minutes down – let’s go!”

His humour lifted the mood, even as fatigue started to set in.

Skinning up in a break from the blizzard. Image © PlanetSKI.

Skinning up in a break from the blizzard. Image © PlanetSKI.

Skinning up in a break from the blizzard. Image © PlanetSKI.

From there, it was a true test of grit – steep kick turns, sideways snow blasting our faces, and every step requiring more determination than the last.

I definitely hit a wall at this point, feeling every inch of altitude in my legs.

But with heads down and focus sharpened, we pressed on.

Finally, rounding a snowy corner, we spotted the summit cross – a welcome sight through the swirling wind.

Relief and exhilaration washed over us as we clipped off our skins, bracing against the howling gale.

The summit was absolutely freezing, but the accomplishment of getting to the top felt worth every struggle.

Team picture at the top. Image © PlanetSKI

The descent began in windswept snow – the first few turns were tricky with hardpack underneath – but within a few moments, we broke through into a pocket of sheltered powder.

It’s hard to put into words the feeling of skiing down that slope.

The snow was soft and perfect, and every turn felt so richly deserved after the tough climb.

There’s something about earning your turns that gives each turn an extra meaning – it was pure magic.

Skiing down. Image © PlanetSKI

Skiing down. Image © PlanetSKI

Skiing down. Image © PlanetSKI

Laying down fresh tracks, we met several groups still slogging uphill, grinning as they saw us floating past in perfect snow.

Huge smiles were exchanged all round – a lovely moment of shared mountain camaraderie.

Looking back at our tracks as another group heads up. Image © PlanetSKI

Eventually, we found ourselves near the hut again but veered off to a different route than yesterday’s steep climb.

A long traverse above the valley gave us time to reflect on the morning’s challenge before dropping back down.

The final few turns. Image © PlanetSKI

From there, we began the familiar 1-hour skin across the flat valley floor, now shrouded in thick fog.

It felt surreal retracing our steps from yesterday, seeing the same landscape but from a totally different perspective.

Along the flat back to the Gemmipass. Image © PlanetSKI

Back at the restaurant at the top of the Gemmi Pass, we treated ourselves to some well-earned rosti – crispy, golden, and the perfect end to an epic two-day tour.

Well deserved rosti. Image © PlanetSKI

With weary legs, we bundled into the van for the 1 hour 45-minute drive back to Chamonix.

I barely stayed awake for the first 10 minutes before drifting off into one of the deepest car naps of my life.

Arriving back at the chalet, we were greeted by the familiar scent of fresh carrot cake.

An early supper followed, before we pretty much collapsed into bed – tired, happy, and proud of what we’d accomplished.

Friday – Powder Day in Chamonix and a Special Final Evening

We woke up to the kind of excitement that only comes from fresh snow and blue skies peeking through the curtains.

After yesterday’s epic touring adventure, we were all feeling the tell-tale ache in our legs, but the promise of a powder day close to home was enough to get us moving.

Breakfast was another comforting spread, and over coffee we chatted about how lucky we’d been with the snow conditions all week, the cloud could have lifted at times but the snow had been great thanks to Simon and Jim’s expert navigation.

Breakfast of champions. Image © PlanetSKI

Today, the guides had planned a fun day of off-piste skiing around Chamonix – a more relaxed but still adventurous day to cap off the trip.

The drive to the lift station at Les Grands Montets was quick, reminding us again just how perfectly located Chamonix is for easy access to multiple resorts.

Once up the mountain, we were rewarded with soft powder snow and clear views of the surrounding peaks – a picture-perfect final day.

Unfortunately my legs had given in, each turn weighed heavy.

I decided to separate from the others and enjoyed some piste skiing.

The resort was almost deserted so I had wide pistes to enjoy all to myself.

After a few runs I popped my skins, sunnies and headphones on and skinned up the side of a path.

Skiers skid past me with a funny look on their face probably thinking “why doesn’t she just get the lift”.

I smugly return their smiles thinking to myself “little do you know where these skins can take you”.

Gentle path to skin up. Image © PlanetSKI

After skiing, we headed straight back to Chambre Neuf for a little dance on the tables before we had our final meal at the chalet.

We were greeted by Elle & Josie who had been busy preparing a special final evening for us.

The smell of something incredible cooking filled the air and there was an unmistakable celebratory atmosphere.

A glass of bubbly was waiting for each of us before dinner, and we toasted to an unforgettable week –  full of challenges, laughs, and great turns.

Dinner that evening was an absolute treat – a homemade feast.

Afterwards, we all gathered around for a final drink, sharing our favourite stories from the trip, grateful for the adventures we’d had and the friendships we’d developed.

We headed to bed with tired legs, full hearts, and the quiet satisfaction that comes from a week well spent in the mountains.

I was hooked on ski touring and I knew this was only the start of many decades of  adventures away from the marked runs and  and ski lifts.

Let the journey begin.

Yours Truly ski touring around Chamonix. Image © PlanetSKI.

Ski touring for the first time. Image © PlanetSKI

What You Need to Know:

See here for full details of the Ski Club holiday: The Chamonix Backcountry Exploration.

Image c/o Ski Club GB

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